In this second installment of our stay at Hoshinoya Taketomi Island, we will introduce an exquisite experience of enjoying French cuisine while gazing at the countless stars twinkling in the sky and the village scenery shrouded in darkness, which is different from the daytime. We call it the "Murikabushi Dinner." It is a luxurious dining experience that is only possible on Taketomi Island, where there is little lighting and the pitch black night sky.

"Hoshinoya Taketomi Island" Accommodation Review Part 1: Surrender yourself to the flow of time and the spirit of "Utsugumi" that is passed down on the island. Click here

The islanders used the "Hoshimi-ishi" to observe the movement of the stars and use this information to help with farm work.

There are currently four starry sky protection zones in Japan, and the starry sky of the Yaeyama Islands, which includes Taketomi Island, is the first to be certified as such.

Since ancient times, people living in the Yaeyama Islands have carefully observed the movement of the stars and decided when to start agricultural work based on their position. The stones used to observe the positions of the stars remain on each island, including Ishigaki Island, as "star-gazing stones." One of these is the star-gazing stone on Akayama Hill on Taketomi Island, which is said to have once been placed in the fields of Yonaguni.

The star-gazing rock, made of the same coral limestone as the gukku, had holes drilled into it, and people would observe the stars through the holes. People were paying attention to the movement of the Pleiades, a part of the constellation Taurus, called "murikabushi" in the Yaeyama dialect. This "murikabushi" is a very familiar word in the Yaeyama region, and often appears in old folk songs. "Murikabushi" can also mean a group of stars, or a "star cluster." This is the background behind the naming of the "Star Cluster Dinner."

The "Starry Night Dinner" begins with a "star-waiting aperitif" in the garden in front of the guest rooms.

Dinner begins with an aperitif. The staff skillfully sets the table in the garden in front of the guest rooms.

The bright sun has set, and the blue of the sky is gradually turning to ultramarine from the east. The western sky is still red. The green surrounding the garden is gradually blending into the dark green, and only the blooming flowers are trying hard to maintain their color. The wind has stopped before you know it.

Before we knew it, the first star was beginning to shine in the western sky. We poured ourselves some rose champagne and the aperitif began.

The elegant wooden box contains finger foods such as aged corned beef tartare and cheese sable. If you look closely, you will see that the bottom of the box is covered with coral fragments. Holding the coral fragments in your hand, you can enjoy a glass of rose champagne while reminiscing about your day on the island.

The white sand in the garden has lost its color, and only the light of the lantern stands out. Looking up, the starry sky is magnificent. At the right time, the staff came to pick us up. We moved to the observation deck and dinner began.

Heading to the observation deck where the atmosphere changes completely from day to night

The observation deck is located at the southeastern end of Hoshinoya Taketomi Island's vast grounds. From the small hill, you can see the entire village of Hoshinoya Taketomi Island and the vast ocean in the distance. The wide, unobstructed view changes its appearance from moment to moment depending on the weather and the position of the sun, so you can enjoy a different view no matter when you visit. The observation deck is reserved exclusively for guests, and this is the stage for the Starry Dinner.

The dizzying starry sky is simply breathtaking.

Guided by a staff member, we climbed to the top of the observation deck, where our tables were already set up.

When I sat down and looked up, I saw a sky full of stars, a spectacular sight. I was amazed to see so many stars shining in the night sky. Looking in another direction, I saw a long white ribbon stretching across the sky. It was the Milky Way. The dizzying panorama of the sky was simply breathtaking.

A staff member waiting on standby as a courtesy explained to us, "You can see 88 of the 84 constellations on the Yaeyama Islands. You can also see all 21 first magnitude stars. That means the night sky is that dark, and in order to maintain this darkness, Hoshinoya Taketomi Island does not have any lighting that shines into the sky."

Indeed, at night, the village is lined with silhouettes of rooftops, dotted with orange lights, and the entire village is plunged into deep darkness. Looking down on the village from the observation deck, it looks as if the stars are raining down, even down to the trees surrounding the village.

Enjoy exquisite French cuisine in the dining room under the stars

The food is carefully delivered to the observation deck by the staff and served in perfect time. It's hard to believe you're eating far from the kitchen.

Following the amuse-bouche of "Tuna and beef tartare with caviar" comes the appetizer of "Prawn and Island Carrot Mousse Mosaic." The lanterns beautifully illuminate the alternating arrangement of prawns and carrot mousse, which are arranged in a regular pattern, just like a mosaic. The springy texture of the prawns creates an exquisite harmony with the distinctive aroma of the island carrots. After the fish dish, the meat dish is "Smoked Roast Wagyu Beef with Colorful Seasonal Vegetables." The rich aroma of the carefully smoked beef whets the appetite.

The French cuisine created by Chef Tatsuro Nakasu actively incorporates the Yaeyama region's unique idea of ​​food as medicine, and while making full use of ingredients that are handed down on the islands, it also uses French cooking techniques and new ideas to create innovative dishes. The dishes that appear in the "Starry Dinner" are also special menus created for this program.

"Tinnu Deep Breath" under the starry sky

Our blissful time under the watchful eye of the starry sky came to an end. The number of lights in the village started to decrease. As if in inverse proportion to that, it seemed like the number of stars had increased even more. Suppressing my desire to continue gazing at them, I returned to my room.

When I stopped by the Yuntaku Lounge to get a coffee, I saw several people on the grass by the pool. I asked a staff member and he told me about the "Tinnu Deep Breathing" that is held every night by the pool. It is a 30-minute session of stretching and deep breathing that helps you sleep well. Under the dim lighting, everyone is stretching out comfortably. And, as expected, the sky is filled with stars. Of course, the Milky Way is clearly visible.

Since I was full, I decided to just look around and join the "Yonnaa Deep Breath" event that was being held early the next morning.

Wake up your body with "Yonna-Deep Breathing"

"Yonnaa Deep Breath" takes place on a beach called Aiyaruhama, about a 10-minute walk from the village. The meeting time on the beach is just before sunrise. The air is still a little moist.

As I moved my body in time with the staff's movements, the sun began to rise over the horizon. Aiyaru Beach, located on the east side of the island, was directly facing the rising sun. The surface of the water sparkled in the sunlight, and the light eventually shone on my body. At first, the movements were slow, but gradually they became a lighter rhythm, and I felt my body waking up. The breeze from the ocean was also refreshing.

It was only a 30-minute stretch, but I felt like I had fully absorbed the energy of the island into my body.

Receiving a share of happiness

Taketomi Island, located about a 10-minute ferry ride from Ishigaki Island, has a circumference of about 9.2 km. There are no traffic lights or convenience stores on the island, and it takes about 3 minutes to walk around the three villages in the center of the island; it is a really small island.

The population is just over 300. However, everyone has a strong attachment to and pride in the island's culture and traditions, and it was clear to see that they are making extraordinary efforts to preserve them.

The white sand roads around the island's villages are free of any trash and have beautiful broom marks. This is because the islanders sweep the roads around their homes with a broom every morning. This beautiful custom has been adopted at Hoshinoya Taketomi Island, and the roads within the facility also have beautiful broom marks.

The concept of Hoshinoya Taketomi Island is "A paradise on the island of nightingales." At first, I thought this referred to the paradise that was being realized within the facility, but I realized that it actually meant the paradise that Hoshinoya Taketomi Island is trying to embody by blending into the island and becoming one with it. Although my stay was short, just two nights and three days, I felt satisfied, as if I had been given a share of the happiness I felt all over the island, but I also felt a little reluctant to leave when I boarded the ferry to Ishigaki Island.

"Hoshinoya Taketomi Island" Accommodation Review Part 1: Surrender yourself to the flow of time and the spirit of "Utsugumi" that is passed down on the island. Click here

◆Hoshinoya Taketomi Island "Murikabushi Dinner"

・Event period: July 2024st to September 7th, 1 (excluding July 9th to 30th, August 7th to 14th, and September 28th to 8th)

Price: 1 yen per person (tax and service charges included) *Accommodation fee not included

What's included: Aperitif and finger food, private observation deck, 5-course dinner

・Reservation method: Reservations accepted up to 14 days in advance on the official website

・Capacity: 1 group per day (up to 1 people)

・Target: Guests staying at Hoshinoya Taketomi Island

・Notes: The event will be canceled if it rains. As seasonal ingredients are used in the dishes,

The contents may change.

Photos by Kayo Takashima

text by Sakurako Miyao