It's a 15-minute boat trip up the Oi River from Togetsukyo Bridge in Arashiyama, a famous Kyoto landmark. Although it is a short boat trip, visitors to Hoshinoya Kyoto, which opened in 2 as the second Hoshinoya in Japan, are drawn into an extraordinary world on this short boat trip. Eventually, a Japanese building surrounded by trees will come into view. Spending time in this quaint building built on the site of a Heian aristocrat's villa will help you experience Hoshinoya Kyoto's concept of "losing track of time in a private waterside residence." In this first of a two-part review of our stay, we will introduce you to this "private waterside residence."

For details on "Hoshinoya Kyoto" stay part 2 "A valuable experience of composing waka poetry following the lecture and guidance of the current head of the Reizei family, 'Uta-yomi in Oku-Arashiyama'" please click here

 A boat trip up the Oi River takes you into an extraordinary world

As the hustle and bustle of Togetsukyo Bridge gradually recedes into the distance, the valley comes into view from both sides. We pass boats sailing down the Hozugawa River, waving to each other and greeting each other, and soon arrive at the pier. A gate comes into view at the end of a gentle slope along the mountain. The elegant gate exudes a sense of the times, and is the very image of a private residence.

Hoshinoya Kyoto's predecessor was a Japanese inn founded in the Meiji era, and when you learn that some parts of the building are over 100 years old, you'll be especially moved by the flavor that can only be achieved through the passage of time.

Going back further in history, the Arashiyama area began as a villa area for the imperial family and aristocrats during the Heian period, when Emperor Saga built a villa (now Daikakuji Temple). The beautiful nature of the four seasons that people loved so dearly remains unchanged even after more than 1000 years have passed, and Hoshinoya Kyoto is an inn where you can enjoy the flow of the Oi River and the abundant nature to your heart's content, as if you were staying in an aristocrat's villa.

The view of Arashiyama outside the window is like a painting.

The magnificent tree branches and greenery, the mighty Oi River flowing beyond, and the rugged rock faces of the mountain foothills on the opposite bank. When you step into the special room "Tsukibashi", which is closest to the boat dock, the view from the large windows opening on two sides jumps out at you like a Japanese painting.

From summer to autumn, the green leaves gradually change color, eventually turning a fiery red, and in winter, snow falls. You can have this view all to yourself.

Leaning out of the window and casually gazing at the jade-colored surface of the river, I see something sparkling in the water. The fleeting glimmer is a river fish darting in the water. Before I know it, the glimmers are all over the place. I wonder where I'll see the next glimmer, and while I'm wondering about that, a trolley train slowly passes by on the opposite bank. Even the sound of the train running somehow seems nostalgic.

Traditional and modern. Two gardens that show a perfect fusion of the two.

The grounds of Hoshinoya Kyoto stretch deep into the riverbank, and each area has a different look.

Passing through the gate and going up the slope from the boat dock, you will come to the Water Garden. There are square stepping stones arranged in a pond filled with pure water brought by a waterfall, and behind them is a summer-only cool terrace. The contrast between the natural scenery of the rugged mountain surface, rocks, and lush green moss and the shape of the artificial stepping stones gives the space a deeper flavor.

As you walk further in, the "inner garden" comes into view. The tiles embedded vertically in the white sand create an atmosphere reminiscent of the ripples in the sand of a dry landscape garden, and this atmosphere, combined with the backdrop of Mt. Ogura on the opposite bank, creates an impressive landscape that is both innovative and deep. The most eye-catching feature in this "inner garden" is a large maple tree that is about 400 years old.

The contrast between the Japanese maple trees, whose branches spread as if to cover the garden, and the modern lines of the tiles, combined with the changing seasons, makes this a particularly memorable space at Hoshinoya Kyoto.

Experience the royal and aristocratic atmosphere at the "Aerial Tea House" that juts out over the Oi River

The library lounge next to the front desk is also a comfortable space.

One place you'll want to relax at least once during your stay is the outdoor deck outside the lounge, known as the "Sky Teahouse." The wooden deck, built to jut out over the Oi River, is literally like a terrace floating in the air. You can enjoy a different atmosphere from the view from inside the room.

As you sit back and enjoy the view of the Oi River flowing by and Mount Ogura on the opposite bank with some of the seasonal snacks and drinks available 24 hours a day in the lounge, you'll feel as if you've been transported to the joyous state of mind of the Heian period aristocrats who once had villas in this area.

You can also choose your favorite book from a wide range of genres selected by the popular book select shop, "Keibunsha Ichijoji Branch" in Kyoto, to make a memorable memory of your trip, and immerse yourself in the words for a while.

I picked up a photo book of small plates. Looking at the cute designs of the plates, such as colored and blue-and-white paintings, I decided to stop by an antique shop in Shinmonzen tomorrow afternoon, and added a new destination to my travel plans.

A new type of kaiseki cuisine that respects the fundamentals of Japanese cuisine while making full use of innovative ingredients

"Because this is a meal to be enjoyed in the naturally rich Arashiyama area of ​​Kyoto, we want to serve traditional banquet cuisine that is respectful of the seasons and adheres to the basics. However, just as the overall atmosphere of Hoshinoya Kyoto skillfully incorporates modern elements into a traditional Japanese atmosphere, while we value traditional methods, we are not limited to Japanese cuisine and instead incorporate new ingredients, sometimes ones that are not often used in Japanese cuisine."

Yoshihiro Ishii, executive chef at Hoshinoya Kyoto, explains.

As the name suggests, the dinner, named "The Taste of Rankyo," features a variety of ingredients from both the East and the West, such as caviar, cream cheese, and white wine, bringing out unprecedented flavors. At the same time, the delicate presentation of the dishes, incorporating the seasons into the dishes, is unique to Japanese cuisine.

The dining area, which is reserved exclusively for dinner, is basically a semi-private room, but for small groups you can choose to sit at the counter and enjoy the traditional Japanese restaurant atmosphere.

The night quietly deepens in Arashikyo

After dinner, I walked slowly through the garden, where outdoor lanterns were lit here and there, back to my room. The river was shrouded in darkness, a stark contrast to the daytime scenery, but fortunately it seemed to be a moonlit night.

The moon is not visible, perhaps because it is hidden behind the edge of the mountain, but the outline of the rock face on the opposite bank is vaguely visible. "It's as if the moon is crossing the bridge." I recall that the name "Togetsukyo Bridge" was derived from an emperor from the Kamakura period who was so moved that he blurted out these words. Bathed in the light of the moon, which has remained unchanged since ancient times, the night at Rankyo quietly deepens.

Hoshinoya Kyoto Hotel Review Part 2: Click here for details on "The Valuable Experience of Composing Waka Poems Following the Lectures and Instructions of the Reizei Family's Current Head Couple: 'Uta-yomi in Oku-Arashiyama'"

Photos by Yukiyo Daido

text by Sakurako Miyao