Interview/Text: Nakajima Chiyoshi (Premium Japan Editorial Department)
When you feel like you're being swept away by the daily grind and suddenly need some mental and physical space, take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Kaga Onsen Station. From there, it's about a 10-minute taxi ride to Yamashiro Onsen. I recently experienced a quiet and relaxing 2-night, 3-day stay at Kai Kaga, located in the heart of the hot spring town, where I surrendered myself to the hot springs.
This stay includes hot springs, gourmet food, and activities that allow you to experience Kaga culture, such as "Kintsugi Iroha," where you can learn the basics of kintsugi (gold repair), and "A Moment of Handicrafts," where you can try painting Kaga lion head netsuke. Exploring the town of Yamashiro Onsen is also a delightful experience. This is a trip where you can fully enjoy culture and relaxation.
"Kai Kaga" - A hot spring inn where you can experience living cultural heritage.
- - Local Room: Relaxing spaces adorned with local culture - "Kaga Traditional Crafts Room"
- Enjoy Yamashiro Onsen, known as a hot spring for beautiful skin.
- - "Kintsugi Iroha" World: A very popular activity in Kaga
- - Kaga Lion Dance: Experience painting a Kaga lion head netsuke
- - Enjoy the delicious flavors of Hokuriku and the beauty of the tableware: Hokuriku Seafood Kaiseki
- - Relax in the dramatic "Bengara Lounge" with its striking red color.
- - A powerful performance by the staff of the local performing arts group "Kaga Shishimai" (Kaga Lion Dance)
- • Sightseeing & Souvenirs: A Guide to Walking Around Yamashiro Onsen Town
- - Relax in the travel library and souvenir shop until the very end.
- A relaxing 2-night, 3-day stay at Kai Kaga, where you can feel perfectly fulfilled and peacefully unwind.
From the taxi window, a peaceful rural landscape unfolds. About 10 minutes from Kaga Onsen Station, the landmark of Yamashiro Onsen, the beautifully retro Koso-yu bathhouse, comes into view. Standing right in front of it is "Kai Kaga".
Kai Kaga is a hot spring inn that utilizes a historic building designated as a Registered Tangible Cultural Property, preserving the unique Kaga design elements such as red latticework. Located in the historic Yunogawa district, the heart of Yamashiro Onsen, the building continues to thrive alongside the hot spring culture. It is a hot spring inn that not only preserves the building but also functions as a modern accommodation, possessing the value of a living cultural asset.
The lobby exudes a blend of modernity and tradition, with a striking installation of mizuhiki (decorative cords).
You can see the tea room from the window of the travel library. The blue of the moss is beautiful.
Local Room: Relaxing in a space adorned with local culture - "Kaga Traditional Crafts Room"
Kai offers unique "local themed rooms" that express the essence of the region. At Kai Kaga, we have prepared the "Kaga Traditional Crafts Room," which brings together the best of Kaga culture. Traditional crafts such as Kutani ware, Yamanaka lacquerware, Kaga Yuzen dyeing, and Mizuhiki cords adorn the room, and even Kutani ware tea sets are provided. The Japanese modern setting, with a living room and bedroom, is elegant yet calming. Kaga's aesthetic sense breathes into every detail of the furnishings, making the stay itself a cultural experience. In rooms with open-air baths, you can enjoy the Yamashiro Onsen hot springs in private.
This time, we stayed in a room overlooking the old public bathhouse. It was perfect for relaxing while enjoying the view of the hot spring town.
At night, I gazed upon the old public bath and the new public bath from my room.
This trip was a 2-night, 3-day trip. On the second night, I wanted to relax and enjoy the hot springs from the morning, so I requested the "Extended Stay Package." For lunch, a special "lunch box" is delivered to your room.
The "Extended Stay Package" includes local sake, Kaga Tobi, snacks, and a mizuhiki (decorative cord) set delivered to your room. I tried my hand at mizuhiki making while carefully reading the instructions.
Enjoy Yamashiro Onsen, known as a hot spring for beautiful skin.
Yamashiro Onsen is a hot spring resort boasting a 1300-year history since its opening. Its waters are also known as "beauty springs." The waters are a sodium-calcium sulfate-chloride spring, and are mildly alkaline and gentle, making you want to soak in them forever.
We immediately headed to the large public bath at "Kai Kaga." Local traditional crafts such as Kutani ware art panels and Kaga lanterns were placed throughout the bathroom, creating an atmosphere where you could experience the local culture while soaking in the hot springs. The feeling of being in a travel destination quietly filled us. In addition, guests of Kai Kaga can also use the Koso-yu, a landmark of Yamashiro Onsen. We slipped on our sandals from Kai and headed to the Koso-yu right in front of us. The atmosphere of the hot spring town filled us with the feeling of being on vacation.
After a relaxing soak in the indoor bath, head to the open-air bath. The relaxation area offers complimentary ice pops and cold drinks, which is a nice touch.
The Koso-yu public bathhouse, located right in front of Kai Kaga, is a landmark of Yamashiro Onsen. It is a restoration of the public bathhouse from the Meiji era. If you show the furoshiki (wrapping cloth) provided in your room at Kai Kaga, you can enjoy the hot springs free of charge as many times as you like during your stay.
"Kintsugi IrohaA very popular activity at Kai Kaga
One of the unique features of KAI is the availability of activities that allow you to experience the local land and culture. During my 2-night, 3-day stay, I decided to participate in Kintsugi (gold repair) and Kaga Shishigashira Netsuke painting workshops, both of which I had always wanted to try.
If you're going to Kai Kaga, you absolutely must experience "Kintsugi Iroha." I was amazed that they have such a large workshop within the inn. It's the first Kintsugi workshop to be established inside a hot spring inn in Japan. It stands within a registered tangible cultural property equipped with the traditional Kaga architectural style "Bengara-goshi," creating a space that evokes a sense of history.
The "Kintsugi Iroha" experience, available exclusively to hotel guests, allows you to explore the profound world of "kintsugi," a traditional Japanese technique for beautifully restoring cracked or chipped pottery. While admiring beautiful Kutani ware tableware, a staff member from Kai will first explain kintsugi while looking at the pieces. Afterwards, you will experience some of the actual processes, such as "filling" the chips with lacquer and "applying powder" to the metal.
Applying kintsugi (gold repair) to chipped or broken parts adds a different nuance, enhancing its charm and imbuing it with beauty. The choice to apply kintsugi gives the vessel new value...this heightened sense of aesthetics is irresistible.
While you look at the actual pottery, the staff will carefully explain what Kintsugi is and the process involved.
Today we were able to experience the "filling" and "powder sprinkling" processes. Each step requires sufficient time for hardening, and it apparently takes about a month to complete all the steps and finish the project.
Kaga Lion Dance: Experience painting a Kaga lion head netsuke
The "A Moment of Handcrafted Experience: Immerse Yourself in the 400-Year Tradition of Kaga Lion Heads and Engage in Conversation with Craftsmen Workshop Tour" takes you to Chida Workshop, which specializes in the creation and repair of lion heads. The tour includes a visit to the workshop, a tour of the production process, and a hands-on experience painting a miniature lion head netsuke. Chida Workshop boasts a 70-year history. You will paint a netsuke while listening to stories from the second-generation owner, Kiyoun Chida.
Apparently, there used to be many workshops making Kaga lion masks in this area, but now only the Chida workshop remains. Lion masks from all over Japan gather at the Chida workshop for repair. They also restore lion masks that were damaged in the Noto Peninsula earthquake. Through the activities at Kai Kaga, I learned that in order to preserve Kaga culture, it is important to learn about and experience that culture.
Choose one of the already carved lion head netsuke and start painting it. Does it turn out cute?
Kiyoun Chida, the second-generation owner of Chida Workshop, works with his wife and son to uphold the family tradition.
Enjoy the delicious flavors of Hokuriku and the beauty of the tableware: Hokuriku Seafood Kaiseki
One of the greatest pleasures of travel is undoubtedly the food. At Kai Kaga, we offer the "Hokuriku Seafood Kaiseki" dinner, which begins with the local appetizer, "Steamed Abalone with Wakame Seaweed." Of course, since this is Kai Kaga, please also pay attention to the tableware. Kitaoji Rosanjin, who stayed for a long time in Yamashiro Onsen and studied pottery, left behind the words, "The tableware is the clothing of the food," saying that tableware is not merely a container for food, but something that enhances the taste and presentation. True to those words, the kaiseki meal is a marriage of tableware and cuisine.
A luxurious Hōraku-mori platter and assorted sashimi. The dishes used are those restored in a Kintsugi workshop. The accompanying sake, "Yamashiro," is brewed with spring water from Onsenji Temple near Kai Kaga.
When you think of the Hokuriku region, you think of blackthroat seaperch. Enjoy the blackthroat seaperch and pufferfish shabu-shabu by quickly blanching them in hot water. The rice porridge made with the shabu-shabu broth is so delicious you'll want seconds.
Relax in the dramatic "Bengara Lounge" with its striking red color.
After the meal, head to the "Bengara Lounge" on the second floor of the traditional building. As you step into the lounge, light spilling in from the old public bathhouse streams in through the windows, and the red of the bengara paint, combined with the white of the hanging decorative mizuhiki cords, creates a wonderfully immersive atmosphere.
The style is to choose one drink and two appetizers from the menu. You can choose your favorites from the approximately 100 types of small plates and sake cups available. The fun of discovering unexpected combinations based on the color, shape, and texture of the tableware is irresistible for tableware lovers.
Its charm lies in the不思議な sense of immersion, where vibrancy and tranquility coexist. There are many ways to spend your time there, from quietly sipping drinks and chatting to reading a book.
The entrance to the Bengara Lounge is lined with colorful Kutani ware and Yamana lacquerware.
Sweets, nuts, and prosciutto of yellowtail served on a small Kutani ware plate. Manzairaku Kaga plum wine, aged 12 years, on the rocks. The light of the old public bathhouse and the red of the bengara paint blend together to create a romantic atmosphere.
A powerful performance by the staff of the local performing arts group "Kaga Shishimai" (Kaga Lion Dance).
9:30 PM. Guests gather in the library lounge. The Kaga Lion Dance performance by the staff of Kai Kaga begins. The magnificent movements of the Kaga Lion and the sound of its teeth clacking together, cutting through the air, instantly raise the temperature of the room.
The origins of the Kaga Lion Dance are said to date back to the time of Maeda Toshiie, the first lord of the Kaga Domain. Among them, the performance known as "Silver Dance" possesses a unique power that captivates the viewer's attention.
The Kaga Lion Dance is incredibly impressive and is performed every night.
Sightseeing & Souvenirs: A Guide to Walking Around Yamashiro Onsen Town
A guide to Yamashiro Onsen to help you discover your own unique charm.
Kai Kaga is located right in front of the old public bathhouse, truly in the heart of Yamashiro Onsen. It's perfect for a stroll and a visit to famous temples such as Hattori Shrine and Onsen-ji Temple, as well as Iroha-soan, the former residence of Kitaoji Rosanjin. Local confectionery shops and famous Kutani ware shops are also within easy walking distance. Along the way, I found a very chic shop selling small items, and a soba noodle restaurant and a sushi restaurant recommended by the Kai Kaga staff. Explore the hot spring town!
Hattori Shrine https://www.tabimati.net/spot/detail_193.html (on the Kaga Onsenkyo website)
Hattori Shrine is famous for its blessings of matchmaking and granting wishes.
Hattori Shrine is said to have been built in 927. It enshrines Ame-no-Hazuchi-no-Okami, the god of weaving, and Kukuri-hime-no-Kami, the goddess of matchmaking. It is also famous for its Ichigon Jizo, which is said to grant one wish.
Yakuoin Onsen Shrine https://www.tabimati.net/spot/detail_255.htm （加賀温泉郷WEBサイト内）
Yakuoin Onsen Shrine, Yamashiro Onsen: A temple with a legend of the opening of Yamashiro Onsen 1300 years ago.
This temple is said to have been discovered by the monk Gyoki on his way to Mount Hakusan. It is a historic temple that also possesses cultural treasures such as an eleven-faced Kannon Bodhisattva statue and a Fudo Myoo statue. The head priest, Myokaku Shonin, is also said to be the founder of the Japanese alphabet (aiueo).
Ren Eishodo https://www.yorunoume.com/
Ren Eishodo: The chic exterior is lovely. I recommend their elegantly sweet 200-year-old yokan (sweet bean jelly) as a souvenir.
Ren Eishodo is a long-established shop boasting a 200-year history. Its modern exterior stands out even on Yunokuruwa Street. The 200-Year-Old Yokan (sweet bean jelly) has an elegant sweetness and is perfect as a souvenir. The yokan in retro packaging is also cute. It's just a short walk from Kai Kaga.
Kutani ware pottery studio Suda Seika https://sudaseika.com/
Suda Seika, a Kutani ware pottery maker, is a long-established business with close ties to Kitaoji Rosanjin.
Suda Seika, a Kutani ware pottery studio with strong ties to Kitaoji Rosanjin, offers a tatami-floored shop filled with exquisite Kutani ware masterpieces. Here, you can enjoy a luxurious time carefully examining the pottery in a tranquil atmosphere.
Moon Moon tsuki-tsuki Social media coordinator @tsukitsuki_official
Tsuki-tsuki offers original incense and lovely accessories.
This shop, which also sells plant-based incense, is located in Kai Kaga. The owner's unique worldview is evident in the way they offer layered fragrances by burning different scents. The shop is full of interesting items, including stylish incense holders and tableware.
Onsen Library Mikan https://akurume.com/mikan
Onsen Library Mikan: A community space for people who gather in Yamashiro Onsen.
"Onsen Library Mikan" is a private library run by local volunteers. It's a place where people from all walks of life—locals, tourists, and newcomers—gather and interact. You can read books that are lent out or sold by the owners of the individual bookshelves, and it can also be used as a co-working space. It's a place where you can feel the new spirit of Yamashiro.
Maekawa Shop https://yamashiro-spa.or.jp/sight/maekawa/ (on the Yamashiro Onsen Tourism Association website)
Maekawa Shop (Maekawa Yusen Tamago Shop) - Specialty souvenirs from Yamashiro Onsen
"Yusen Tamago" is the signature product of Maekawa Shoten, a Japanese confectionery shop located next to Kai Kaga. Simply put, it's a hot spring egg, but it's deliciously cooked to the perfect degree—neither too soft nor too hard. It also keeps well, making it a unique souvenir.
Kame Sushi http://kame-sushi.com/
Kame Sushi is a highly recommended restaurant by the Kai staff. You can enjoy the bounty of the Hokuriku region in the form of sushi.
For a 2-night, 3-day trip, dining out is a great option for dinner on the second day. You can enjoy fresh seafood from the Hokuriku region in the form of sushi. The restaurant's charming exterior is also lovely. It's also conveniently located just a short walk from the hotel.
Relax until the very end at the travel library and souvenir shop.
On the morning of our last day, we went back to the old public bathhouse. When we returned, we had tea at the travel library. Even though we had already bought lots of souvenirs, we did some more shopping at the souvenir corner curated by the Kai Kaga staff. There were so many cute and unique items that it was hard to choose!
A striking feature in the travel library is the ten-panel folding screen inscribed by Kitaoji Rosanjin. It showcases Rosanjin's bold and free brushwork, reflecting his long stay in Yamashiro Onsen, where he studied pottery and cuisine. It is believed to have been created in reference to the legend that Myokaku Shonin of Onsen-ji Temple invented the Japanese syllabary (a, i, u, e, o).
Tsuki Tsuki's plant-based incense sticks all have a natural fragrance.
I bought Kaga Bocha Kyoka as a souvenir, as it pairs well with the Ren's 200-Year-Old Yokan that I purchased yesterday.
A perfectly fulfilling and peacefully relaxing 2-night, 3-day stay at Kai Kaga
Soak in the hot springs, experience traditional culture through activities, and stroll through the town at your leisure. Kai Kaga in Yamashiro Onsen offers the luxury of not being rushed by time. It is a place where you can simply be quiet and reconnect with your own senses. When you want to take a breather, when you want to distance yourself from the everyday, Kai Kaga offers a light and tranquil atmosphere, detached from the hustle and bustle of daily life.
◆Kai Kaga
This traditional Kaga hot spring inn inherits the history of a long-established inn that has welcomed many cultural figures since 1624, while also breathing new life into it. The traditional building, including the front hall, and the tea room are registered as a national tangible cultural property. Guests can enjoy a stay immersed in Kaga culture, with guest rooms adorned with traditional crafts such as Kaga Yuzen and Mizuhiki, cuisine that reflects the philosophy of gourmet Kitaoji Rosanjin, and the impressive Kaga Lion Dance.
A 2-night stay at Kai Kaga is highly recommended.
To fully enjoy the hot springs and refresh your mind and body, one night isn't enough. We recommend a relaxing 2-night, 3-day stay. We suggest a multi-night stay so you can enjoy your trip to the fullest.
Recommended 2-night stay at Kai: https://hoshinoresorts.com/ja/brands/kai/sp/renpaku_kai/
◆What is Kai Brand?
Kai is Japan's first hot spring inn brand operated by Hoshino Resorts. Currently operating in 23 locations nationwide, the brand aims to expand to approximately 30 locations in some of Japan's leading hot spring areas over the next few years, becoming a hub for travel throughout Japan. With the theme of "Classic yet new," Kai offers a comfortable and pleasant space with a charming atmosphere, where hospitable staff focus on the essence of travel: "region" and "season," proposing unique travel experiences specific to each location.
Photos by Azusa Todoroki
Text by Chisa Nakajima
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A 2-night, 3-night stay exploring Kai, savoring the hot springs and local...
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