Now in Wajima
By February, Hokuriku Railroad's limited express bus service between Wajima and Kanazawa had started running on a limited schedule, and by the beginning of March, I was finally able to borrow a replacement car and return home to Kuroshima temporarily.
We took warm clothing, boots, helmets, flashlights, emergency supplies, toilets, sleeping bags, and food for our stay...It was as if we had jumped into the world of "Elmer's Adventures" that we read as children, with luggage that had been prepared for every danger, and clutching our Shinkansen tickets from Odawara to Kanazawa, and we set off for the Noto Peninsula.
During this period, infectious diseases such as COVID-19 and influenza were prevalent, so they stayed in an instant house built near the evacuation shelter and transported their artworks and other items from their damaged homes.


The area that was underwater before the earthquake feels like another world. In early March, while exploring the uplifted area, we saw the completely changed townscape of Kuroshima.


Car tracks pile up on the thin layer of snow. You can hear the sounds of people breathing as they wait for the warmth of spring.
Electricity was restored to the town at the end of January, and as darkness fell, lights could be seen lit up in a few houses.
A light snow fell during the night, and when it accumulated and the sunlight shone through, the whole area sparkled brilliantly, creating such a magical effect that we almost forgot there had even been an earthquake.
As the sun rose, people's footprints and car tracks appeared on the asphalt pavement, and as the snow began to melt, we drove carefully, checking for raised areas.
The people of Noto are caught between the future they envision and reality
Recovery and reconstruction in Noto is not progressing smoothly. There are many areas where water and sewerage systems have not been restored, and even though they have been restored, there are still many households where construction work has not progressed due to water leaks within residential areas. Even in the rainy season, support for water supply and bathing is still ongoing.
Many residents are unable to return to Wajima from their secondary evacuation sites even though they want to, and the population outflow continues.
Since that big tremor, the situation has become so serious that it is as if 10 to 20 years have been fast-forwarded, and we are now forced to immediately address many issues, including a declining birthrate and an aging population, and depopulation.


Blue tarpaulins continue to cover buildings throughout the city. Even if they are protected, when the weather turns bad the tarpaulins tend to come off or break, allowing wind and rain to get inside the houses.
Since April, local governments have begun hosting discussion forums about the future of the region in various parts of the Noto Peninsula.
While there are movements to bring local people together, with their vision for the future, their love for their local culture, and a spirit of mutual support, the reality is that various issues are intertwined and progress is not being made, and it feels like I am seeing both the light and the shadow of this world at the same time.
As I take another look at the geographical conditions of this peninsula, I also feel that there is potential that only this climate can offer.
Following in the footsteps of our predecessors
Living in Noto, there are times when you suddenly realize that the footsteps of our ancestors remain intact in the culture and customs of this region. Visible and invisible, traditions and traditions that continue to breathe are present everywhere. One such place is the Shiroyone Senmaida rice fields.
In early June, I visited the rice terraces along the coast, about a 6-minute drive north from the center of Wajima City. There are more than 15 small rice fields lined up on a slope facing the Sea of Japan. The earthquake caused rice fields to collapse and deep cracks to appear in the ridges, banks, and fields, while also damaging the agricultural canal that draws water from the mountains.
Under these circumstances, with the cooperation of many people, the rice fields have been restored and cultivation has been resumed in the areas that sustained the least damage. Until around the mid-Showa period, rice seeds were sown in these rice fields, and the seedlings that were grown and then planted by hand.
Members of the local volunteer group "Shiroyone Senmaida Aikokai" continue to protect this scenic landscape by cultivating and caring for the rice terraces, following the traditional hand-powered farming methods.


In the water seedling farming method, rice seeds soaked in water are sown and rice seedlings are grown in paddy fields.
Just one year ago, a rice planting event was held and I had the opportunity to try out this water seedling farming method.
At that time, we worked on removing seedlings from the seedling bed, planting rice, and degassing the soil. The skilled work of the fathers and mothers of the "Aikokai" who taught us the work, and their hands were filled with love and kindness for the rice fields.
During planting season, the rice fields were so soft that their feet got caught in them, but the sight of them striding through them looked very robust.


We had rice wrapped in a magnolia leaf during the break. Hot rice is placed on a young magnolia leaf and wrapped in a sprinkling of sweetly seasoned green soybean flour. In this region, it is customary to eat this between rice plantings.
"Agriculture is a job where you think about the next task and the next person."
Through this series of tasks, I realized that the very basis of farming is to observe the condition of the soil and the organisms living there and "create an environment in which seedlings can grow healthily."
Our eyes are naturally drawn to the superficial growth of the plants being cultivated, but it is the accumulation of work and care that goes into cultivating rich soil in harmony with nature, weeding the surrounding areas and mending the ridges so the seedlings can take root properly, and taking the time to care for the rice plants - all of these activities and care are reflected in the scenery of the terraced rice fields.


Senmaida in autumn last year, the harvest season. The scenery of these rice terraces is the result of the daily farming work of the Aikokai members.
I will never forget what the Aikoukai members said while we were having tea during the break: "Agriculture is a job that you do while thinking about the next task, the next person."
The wisdom and spirit of living with this land flows among the people who cultivate and maintain the Senmaida rice fields, and is passed down through their farming work. I respect their way of life, which respects the cycle of life along with the changing of the seasons.
"All the plants, trees and land will become Buddhas"
The members of Aikoukai have suffered different damages due to the disaster, but many are unable to live in their homes and are commuting from secondary evacuation centres far away to help with the restoration of Senmaida rice fields, or staying in rest centres, where they are doing heavy manual labour every day.
Because these people are so deeply rooted in this land, their dedication to farming here seems all the more radiant.
The people of Noto live as if embraced by nature, accepting the harshness of nature and at other times being soothed by the tranquil scenery. They feel the air and scent of the wind from the countryside and the sea, and together with the plants and animals that live there, this land is rich in soil that our ancestors have nurtured with a spirit of mutual help.
The progress of reconstruction is slow, but the accumulation of decisions and actions made by the local residents themselves is creating a livelihood and building new homes and townscapes.
As the saying goes, "All plants, trees, and the land become Buddhas," and everything that exists in this world has the potential to return us to our original state, we hope that the collection of lifestyles here will serve as a stepping stone to creating a town in harmony with nature.
Enjoy seasonal foods and stay healthy for the summer
There is a difference in the time period when outdoor-grown produce is available and when it is sold in supermarkets.
In normal years, new potatoes and onions are available in supermarkets from early spring, but in Wajima they start appearing at local produce markets in late June.
The harvest season in Noto is when the trees turn green and the damp smell of grass fills the air. This coincides with the time when fireflies begin to fly upstream of the river, and various kinds of butterflies and dragonflies emerge from their cocoons and fly around in the fields.


Butterflies fluttering through flower fields in search of nectar.


New onions have a plump shape growing in the soil and a juicy, shiny color. Grown without pesticides, they don't sting your eyes when chopped, and are sweet and fruity when eaten raw in a salad.
This year, the rainy season began late, at the end of June. Hydrangeas come alive in the humid, murky air, and when the sun shines, day glories bloom.
Various plants and trees have bloomed and then borne fruit, including sea eggplant, loquat, wild strawberry, plum, berry, plum, and blueberry, all of which are deliciously colored. These fruits are not cultivated for distribution, but are grown for personal use or grown wild, and have a mild flavor. Many of them are inedible as is, so they are enjoyed as jams or compotes.


During the rainy season in Noto, the humidity is so high that it feels as if you are floating underwater, and the hydrangeas look even more radiant after the rain.


If you prepare a large amount of green pepper at this time of year, you can enjoy it as a secret ingredient in various dishes throughout the year.
Another joy of this season is making preserved foods such as plums, Japanese pepper, and shallots. By taking the time to use the ingredients that you come across in between work on the lacquer, you can add depth to the experience.
The excitement of the time spent preparing food and waiting makes work more efficient. The scenery on the dining table changes with the changing seasons to reflect the flora and fauna of the natural world.
Now is the time to nurture the mind and body by savoring seasonal foods and create a rhythm that will help you comfortably endure the coming hot and humid weather.


A plate of dried sardines and homemade leaves. The seasonal fruit is rich in aroma and spicy enough to numb the tongue. When seasoned with small sardines, it makes a great dish to go with rice.


Asparagus rice served in a handmade lacquer bowl. Enjoy the simple taste of sweet, tender seasonal asparagus.
See below for details on the activities of the Shirokome Senmaida Aikokai.
・X (old Twitter): https://x.com/noto_senmaida/
・Instagram:https://www.instagram.com/p/C8z99UYSCAp/


photography by Kuninobu Akutsu
Yukiko Akiyama
Born in Kanagawa Prefecture. She graduated from Joshibi University of Art and Design High School. She graduated from Joshibi University of Art and Design, majoring in dyeing. In her high school class, she came across ``The Story of Urushi'' by the late Living National Treasure lacquer artist Gonroku Matsuda, which led her to decide to pursue a career in lacquer. After graduating from university, she moved to Wajima City, Ishikawa Prefecture to train in lacquer painting. She graduated from the Ishikawa Prefectural Wajima Lacquer Art Training Institute. She graduated from the Ishikawa Prefectural Wajima Lacquer Art Training Institute, Department of Lacquer. She became an apprentice to Living National Treasure Kunie Komori and became independent at the end of the year. She encountered the January 1st earthquake just as she was setting up her Takaura lacquer workshop in the Kuroshima district of Wajima City.
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“Wajima News ~While looking up at the starry sky~” is…
Yukiko Akiyama, a lacquer artist who lives in Wajima, writes ``Wajima News ~While looking up at the starry sky~''. 30 minutes by car from the center of Wajima City. The Kuroshima area, located in the northwestern part of the Noto Peninsula, flourished as a residence for Kitamae-bune ship owners and sailors, and its beautiful landscape with black-tiled roofs has been designated as a nationally important preservation district for groups of traditional buildings. I did. After 16 years in Wajima, lacquer artist Yukiko Akiyama set up a workshop in an old private house in the Kuroshima district, and was just about to work on her work while restoring it, when she was struck by the earthquake. Like many buildings, Akiyama's workshop collapsed. Although there is no prospect of resuming production in her workshop, she will continue to work with lacquer here, and while working on the town development of Kuroshima, she will aim to rebuild the Noto Peninsula and solidify her resolve to start a new life. I am. The rich lifestyle of Kuroshima in the past, the beautiful nature, the interaction with people, the passion for lacquer, and the current situation of the disaster area... She is a woman who lives her daily life in the disaster-stricken area and strives for reconstruction, but at the same time, she depicts the true image of Noto as depicted by a woman who deals seriously with lacquer.
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News from Wajima ~While looking up at the starry sky~...
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