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2024.12.30

Avoid the crowds and experience a quiet trip to Kyoto. Visit the sub-temples of Tofukuji Temple in search of beautiful gardens

Kyoto is home to some of the most popular tourist attractions in Japan, including Kiyomizu-dera Temple, Kinkaku-ji Temple, and Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine.

With so many sights packed into a small area, it can often get crowded.



But even in this city of Kyoto, there are still hidden gems that are not very popular with tourists.

That is the Tofukuji area that we will introduce this time.



Tofukuji Temple is famous for its autumn leaves, but the sub-temples on its vast grounds are little-known spots with a tranquil atmosphere. Some sub-temples have spectacular gardens open to the public all year round, so be sure to visit and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere of Kyoto. We will also introduce some wonderful coffee shops that you should visit.


■Fudain Temple - An ancient temple where the spirit of the painter-monk Sesshu lives on

"Fuda-in," better known as "Sesshu-ji," is a temple with a "Tsurukame Garden (Southern Garden)" created by Sesshu, a Muromachi period painter-monk famous for his ink paintings.




The garden, which is centered around Kamejima, a rock formation resembling a turtle, and is made up of white sand, moss, and evergreens, is said to be one of the oldest dry landscape gardens in Kyoto.




The "Tsurukame Garden (South Garden)" at Bunda-in Temple The "Tsurukame Garden (South Garden)" at Bunda-in Temple

Founded in the late Kamakura period by the regent Ichijo Naike, it has been the family temple of the Ichijo clan ever since.




There is also a legend about the South Garden.

 

When Sesshu was asked to create a "painting of a turtle," he created a garden with Turtle Island as the centerpiece, not with painting, but with stonework. That night, he heard a noise and went out to the garden to find Turtle Island moving its arms and legs and crawling around the garden. He placed a large stone on top of the turtle's body, and the turtle stopped moving, and the current double-foundation Turtle Island was completed.




Although it subsequently fell into disrepair over the years and two fires, it was restored by Mirei Shigemori in 14. At that time, Mirei added the eastern garden, which also featured the island of cranes and turtles. While the southern garden is centered around Turtle Island, this garden is centered around Crane Island.




The southern garden seen through a shoji screen The southern garden seen through a shoji screen

The garden seen through the shoji screens is also beautiful. In the main hall, there are paintings on the sliding doors by Unkoku Toji, a painter of the Unkoku school who inherited the style of Sesshu.




Both gardens have a tranquil appearance with bamboo forests as a backdrop, and if you listen carefully, you can hear the rustling of the bamboo leaves swaying in the wind and the chirping of the birds. You can relax and calm your mind as if you were doing zazen, and immerse yourself in the scenery that reflects the aesthetic sense of Sesshu and Mirei.




【Facility information】
Fundain Temple
Address: 15-803 Honmachi, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City
Telephone 075-541-1761
Visiting hours: 9:00-16:30 (until 16:00 in winter)
Admission fee: 500 yen for adults, 300 yen for children
Official website https://funda-in.com/

 

 

 

 




■ Komyoin Temple - A temple also known as the "Rainbow Moss Temple"




Komyoin Temple is also known as the Rainbow Moss Temple because of the beauty of its moss. This temple also has a garden designed by Mirei Shigemori.




The main highlight is the main garden, "Hashintei," which is famous as one of Mirei's early masterpieces. A triad of Buddha-like stones is set atop white sand representing the ocean, and 48 standing stones are arranged in a diagonal line from it. This dry landscape garden has an exquisite balance of dynamism and tranquility.




"Hashintei" garden at Komyoin Temple "Hashintei" garden at Komyoin Temple

Hashintei Garden was created in the same year as the Tofukuji Hojo Garden and Hasso Garden. It can be viewed from both the main hall and the Shoin.




Large prunings of azalea and azalea flowers in the shape of cloud patterns cover the backdrop, and if you look up further you will see the teahouse "Rokugetsuan." This teahouse was also designed by Mirei, and the windows, walls, and shoji screens are decorated with moon motifs.




The reason being, Hashintei was designed around the theme of "light." This hermitage is likened to the moon, representing the moon of enlightenment reflected on the ocean after the clouds clear, conveying that at the end of enlightenment there is a full halo of light surrounding the Buddha.




The circular window of Komyoin Temple, "The Window of Leisure" The circular window of Komyoin Temple, "The Window of Leisure"

Beyond the circular window, "The Leisurely Window," you can see the rock garden, "Unreitei," where Marishisonten, the guardian deity of victory, is enshrined.




The front garden, Unreitei Garden, just inside the temple gate, was also designed by Mirei. Contemporary art exhibitions are regularly held in the main hall and shoin study, and the scenery created by the fusion of old and new is captivating.




【Facility information】
Komyoin Temple
Address: 15-809 Honmachi, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City
Telephone 075-561-7317
Visiting hours: 7:00 to sunset
Admission fee: 500 yen
Official website https://komyoin.jp/
Instagram @komyoin




■Reiun-in Temple - Two gardens where the mysteries of the universe reside




The last garden we would like to introduce is that of Reiun-in Temple, which was also designed by Mirei Shigemori.

 

The Garden of Nine Mountains and Eight Seas in the front garden of the Shoin was created in the mid-Edo period, but after falling into disrepair for a long time, was restored by Mirei in 45. This dry landscape garden expresses the Buddhist worldview with the "Iaiseki" (Ilove Stone) enshrined in the center and the rhythmic ripples of the white sand surrounding it.




Reiun-in Temple's "Garden of the Nine Mountains and the Eight Seas" Reiun-in Temple's "Garden of the Nine Mountains and the Eight Seas"

The "Iaiseki" is a precious stone from the garden, with a stand and stone boat attached. It symbolizes Mount Sumeru, which stands majestically at the center of the world in the ancient Indian view of the universe.




The garden, "Gaun Garden," based on the temple's name "Reiun," was created in the Showa era. The beauty of the water flowing through the valley and the clouds rising on the mountainside are expressed with white sand, Kurama sand, and a waterfall.




These two famous gardens, which use abstract forms to represent the cosmos and natural landscapes, are both highly original and make you feel like you could lose track of time and gaze at them forever.




The "Gaun Garden" at Reiun-in Temple The "Gaun Garden" at Reiun-in Temple

The "Gaun Garden" features Mirei's characteristic modern design. It represents a state of mindlessness, of living without attachment to anything, like mindless flowing water and leisurely floating clouds.




To the north of the Shoin is Kangetsu-tei, one of the few two-story tea houses in Japan. It was relocated from the time of the Kitano Grand Tea Ceremony held by Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and evokes the pure and simple style of tea ceremony in the Momoyama period.




The garden is open throughout the year, but mainly on weekends, national holidays, the equinox, Obon, Golden Week, etc. Opening hours may change depending on the weather, so it's a good idea to call before visiting to check.




【Facility information】
Reiun-in Temple
Address: 15-801 Honmachi, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City
Telephone 075-561-4080
Visiting hours: 10:00-15:00 (last admission at 14:30) *Opening irregularly
Admission fee: 500 yen for adults, 300 yen for junior high school students *Children under 12 years old are not allowed to enter
Official website https://reiunin.jp/



■Coffee and sweets Tile's - Home-roasted coffee and baked goods




After touring the sub-temples, take a break with some coffee and sweets.

 

Tile's, a cafe and sweets shop located about a seven-minute walk from Tofukuji Station, is run by the owner, Yururi Murakami, alone.




The interior of the restaurant, which was renovated from a 100-year-old townhouse, has high ceilings and is open. The well-maintained courtyard garden was cleared by the owner himself, and the plants were transplanted from his own garden.




Inside Tile's cafe and sweets Inside Tile's cafe and sweets

From tableware to furniture and furnishings, items carefully selected by Murakami's keen eye for aesthetics create a comfortable space.




The in-house roasted coffee is made by roasting hand-picked raw beans in small batches. In addition to the medium-dark roast "Tiles Blend (500 yen)" with a hint of sweetness and a hint of bitterness, it is also available as "Cafe au Lait (550 yen)", a strong brew made from dark roasted coffee beans and poured over milk.




Also recommended is the baked goods made with domestic wheat. The most recommended is the "Carrot Cake (490 yen)" which contains seasonal fruits such as apples, persimmons, and pineapples. The moist yet light dough is filled with organic raisins, walnuts, and carrots. The harmony of the spiced dough and cream cheese frosting is irresistible.




"Carrot cake" and "Tile pudding" "Carrot cake" and "Tile pudding"

The rich-tasting "Tile's Pudding (460 yen)" is also popular. It feels dense when you put a spoon into it, but is smooth and creamy when you put it in your mouth.




If you visit at lunchtime, you can also choose the "Homemade Yeast Bread Deli Plate (1,250 yen)." The campagne and focaccia breads are fermented at low temperatures for a long time using homemade Levain yeast made from wheat flour, and are baked with simple ingredients, giving them a rich flavor that you will never tire of.




The vegetable-packed deli, salads, and soups are all carefully prepared using carefully selected ingredients. They are colorful and satisfy both your stomach and your heart.




【Facility information】
Cafe and sweets Tile's
Address 22-27 Imakumano Kazunomori-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto City
Phone: No
Business hours 12: 00 to 16: 00
Closed Sundays to Wednesdays, and irregular holidays. *Open from January 2025th (Thursday) in 1.
Instagram @tiles.kyoto




There are still plenty of places to visit in the city of Kyoto.

Please visit the place two or three times and experience its profound charm.



Text by Erina Nomura

 

Erina Nomura
A writer born in Osaka in 1986 and currently living in Kyoto. After graduating from university, he worked for a production company involved in a variety of media, including publishing, advertising, and the web. In 2020, he went independent and is now working as a freelancer. His areas of interest include craftsmanship, traditional culture, lifestyle, and travel. As a Kyoto correspondent for Premium Japan, he reports on the latest happenings in Kyoto through the "Kyoto News" section of the editorial department's blog.







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