Although it was the beginning of spring according to the calendar, it was still cold in mid-February, so I received an invitation to travel to Kai Kaga and took the Hokuriku Shinkansen to the spot.
As we approached Nagano Station, the scenery outside the train window changed completely. The roofs, fields, and mountains were covered in snow, creating a white world. I shivered, expecting it to be very cold, but when I got off at Kanazawa Station, strangely enough, I didn't feel that cold at all. Apparently, because the snow contains a lot of water, the humidity is high, so you don't feel that cold.
Visiting the Kaga Lion Head Craftsmanship Workshop
This time, I headed straight for Chida Workshop to take part in KAI Kaga's Tegoyo no Hitoiki (Time of Handicrafts) program, which began this March: "A workshop tour to immerse yourself in the 400-year tradition of Kaga lion head craftsmen and chat with them."
Chida Kobo is the only studio in Ishikawa Prefecture that specializes in making Kaga lion heads. The second generation Chida Seiun, his wife Yoriko, and their son Ome are a family that continues to preserve the traditions of Kaga lion.
Second generation owner, Seiun Chida. Chida Koubou is a workshop that has been in business for 70 years. "When my father started the business, there were many Kaga lion head workshops in this area, but now we are the only one left," he told us.
Speaking of Kaga lion, it reminded me of "Tenshu Monogatari" by Kyoka Izumi, a story about a beautiful demon mistress who lives in the castle tower of Himeji Castle.
The castle tower is decorated with a giant lion's head. I had always wondered if it could be a Kaga lion, as Izumi Kyoka was from Kanazawa. So I was really looking forward to this visit.
At Chida Studio, you can not only see the lion heads being made and hear about the difficulties of continuing to preserve traditional crafts, but you can also try painting a mini lion head netsuke. I'm not very good with hands... I was a little worried, wondering if I would be able to do it... but my worries were brushed aside. His wife Yoriko and son Ome carefully taught me the tricks of painting.
Since they also do repairs, lion heads are collected from all over the country at Chida Workshop. They also repair lion heads damaged in the Noto Peninsula earthquake. The Kaga lion head certainly looks like the lion that appears in Izumi Kyoka's "Tenshu Monogatari". It's very impressive when you see it up close.
Your own lion head netsuke is complete! It is said that the lion head will eat away bad luck, making it your very own personal amulet. My lion head is the one on the far left.
You will be overwhelmed by the winter extravagance of the "crab kaiseki" meal
After leaving Chida Kobo, we headed to "Kai Kaga". The main course for this evening was the "Kiwame Tagged Live Crab Kaiseki." Starting with sashimi, grilled live crab, fried crab, steamed crab, crab sukiyaki, and rice porridge, it was full of crab. It got me excited.
I had the image of crabs being peeled in silence, but that's not the case at Kai Kaga. For example, when ordering steamed crabs, they show you the steamed ones, and then they properly peel each one for you. They're very kind. They really go out of their way to make sure you get what you want.
Enjoy a moment of crab feasting while sipping on a sake tasting set... a luxury only available in winter.
The crab sits right in front of the sashimi. It has a great soft texture and sweetness.
When the steamed crab arrives, the crowd cheers in amazement at its size. Steamed crab is tied with a rope soaked in salt water and steamed, so the crab meat does not lose moisture and can be enjoyed more juicy. The crab dishes are also made by a local Kutani ware artist specially for this steamed crab.
Enjoy the local entertainment "Kaga Lion Dance" only at Kai
At 9pm, after dinner, the Library Lounge is transformed for a short time into a theater, as the staff of KAI Kaga perform a magnificent Kaga Lion Dance.
The history of Kaga Lion Dance is said to have begun during the time of Maeda Toshiie, the first lord of the Kaga domain. The local lion dance, called "Shirogane no Mai," is more heroic and intense than you might imagine. All the guests were fascinated by its power. After the dance, you can take a commemorative photo with all the guests who wish to take one, so a long line forms.
The lion heads at KAI Kaga were also made at Chida Koubou, giving a sense of the deep commitment KAI Kaga has to cherishing local traditions.
The powerful Kaga Lion Dance.
On this day, the staff performed a rousing lion dance. If you participate in the Tego no Hito Toki "A workshop tour to learn about the 400-year tradition of Kaga lion dance and talk with the craftsmen," you can watch from the front row.
Beauty hot springs and snow scenery at Yamashiro Onsen
Of course, I also enjoyed the hot springs. Yamashiro Onsen is a sodium calcium sulfate chloride spring, which is slightly alkaline and gentle on the skin. I immediately headed to the large public bath.
The bathroom area is lavishly decorated with local traditional crafts, such as Kutani ware art panels and Kaga lanterns, and being able to experience things from the local area enhances the feeling that you are traveling.
At KAI Kaga, there is a bath attendant who manages the temperature to ensure a comfortable bathing experience. Taking a bath while gazing at the small garden with snow still remaining on it is truly heavenly. The water feels so soft that you could stay in it forever. This is the true joy of winter hot springs in snowy countries.
The garden with remaining snow and the pine trees hung with snow hangings are just like what you would imagine a snowy country to be.
The walls of the indoor bath are decorated with art panels by local Kutani ware artists. Four artists have created works in the four traditional Kutani ware styles: "Iroe," "Aote," "Akae," and "Aikutani." They depict the four seasons.
An evening at the beautiful Bengara Lounge
After dinner, we visited the Bengara Lounge, which just opened in March 2024. When you pass through the noren curtains at the entrance, you will see about 3 types of tableware, including "Kutani ware" and "Yamanaka lacquerware." If you choose your favorite tableware, glasses, and tray from this, a set of sake and snacks will be prepared for you.
From the seats, limited to four groups, you can see the landmark of Yamashiro Onsen, Kosoyu, right in front of you. The light spilling from the illuminated stained glass of Kosoyu and the vivid red of the Bengara Lounge mix with the darkness of the night, creating an indescribable beauty.
Right in front of you is "Kosoyu." The red of the Bengara Lounge, the white of the snow, and the colors of the stained glass spilling out of "Kosoyu" create a mix of light and darkness that shines brightly in the quiet night.
Although it changes depending on the season, you can choose one of three types of sake, whiskey, shochu, gin, plum wine, etc., and snacks from pickles, assorted nuts, sweets, etc. Non-alcoholic drinks are also available.
The next morning was a beautiful sunny day, so we went for a walk around Yamashiro Onsen. We spent the time browsing local Japanese sweet shops and Kutani ware shops. The water was nice and the food was delicious. We were also able to experience the local traditions, making it a memorable trip.
Next time, I might visit the 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art, Kanazawa, the National Crafts Museum, Ishikawa Prefectural Library, and the Izumi Kyoka Memorial Museum, spend a night in Kanazawa, and relax at KAI Kaga on the second day. Another option is to take a literary stroll in Kanazawa and then go to Yamashiro Onsen.
It was a trip that made me want to imagine my next trip.
Chisa Nakajima
Deputy Editor-in-Chief of Premium Japan. He loves watching Japanese movies from the 1950s and 60s and drinking wine.
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