The Kyoto Food Expo was held at Kyoto Takashimaya SC for six days from Wednesday, May 2025th to Monday, May 5th, 14. This event brought together Kyoto's gourmet food, including gourmet food and sweets from restaurants and Japanese and Western confectionery shops throughout Kyoto Prefecture, and bread from popular bakeries. In a special space, there was a dashi tasting experience from three of Kyoto's most representative restaurants, which changed each day, making it a great opportunity to enjoy the skills of chefs who have inherited traditions and the rich food culture.

From the 14th (Wed) to the 16th (Fri), there were lectures by Kyoto chefs. They shared valuable stories about traditional techniques and the future of Japanese cuisine. Kyoto Tsushin will be reporting on these events in three parts.

Masahiro Kurisu [Third-generation owner of Tankuma Kitaten] - Envisioning the future of Kyoto cuisine

The lecture on the first day was given by Masahiro Kurisu, the third-generation owner of Tankuma Kitaten, a Kyoto cuisine restaurant founded in 1928. His talk began with the background to how washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) was registered as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, and went on to discuss the connection between food and culture in Japan, and the potential for washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine) to spread around the world.

UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Registration and its Background

The lecture began with a discussion of the background behind the registration of "Washoku: Traditional Japanese Food Culture" as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage in December 2013. In fact, at the time, washoku was not considered to be a part of Japanese culture that should be protected and passed down within Japan. However, by continuing to disseminate the history and traditions of washoku both domestically and internationally, it has come to be recognized once again.

What was impressive was the story that the appeal of Japanese cuisine was recognized through interactions with chefs in Lyon, France, and that this became a driving force behind the registration of Japanese Heritage.

"We held a Japanese cuisine training camp-like event at the Lyon branch of a Japanese culinary college. This sparked an interest among local chefs in the techniques, umami, utensils and ingredients of Japanese cuisine. The following year we held a study group in the Kansai region, where we visited a knife workshop in Sakai and toured a sake brewery and a miso brewery. We gave the students a thorough lesson in the fundamentals of Japanese cuisine.

Through these exchanges, a Japanese food boom started among top chefs in Europe. Some even said it was like "food from another planet". Japanese food culture has evolved in a completely different way from other countries in Asia, so there was a lot of interest in it. Thanks to their recommendation, we were able to spread the word about registering it as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage."

The spirit of hospitality that shapes Kyoto cuisine

The wonderfulness of Japanese food culture has been praised by chefs overseas. But where does its essence lie? Where exactly is it? It is in the culture of hospitality. And in its connection with annual events, says Kurisu.

Through food rooted in ancient events such as New Year's osechi cuisine, ozōni, and dishes related to the five seasonal festivals, he taught us about the depth of Kyoto cuisine, which expresses the spirit of "hospitality" and the beauty of the four seasons.

"Sekku festivals also mark seasonal turning points. It's easy to get sick during those times. In the past, people believed that illness was caused by evil spirits entering the body, so they ate things to ward off evil spirits on those festivals - things like rice porridge with seven herbs on Jinjitsu Festival (January 1th), kusamochi on Jōshi Festival (March 7rd), and chimaki on Tango Festival (May 3th)."

"The food and garnishes we serve in our restaurant change with the seasons. For example, in July we prepare sushi wrapped in bamboo leaves, modeled after the warding off evil spirits dumplings given out on the eve of the Gion Festival. In September, we prepare dishes with a chrysanthemum motif, in honor of the Choyo Festival (September 7th), when chrysanthemums are used to ward off evil spirits.

In the alcove of the room where we welcome our guests, we hang a seasonal scroll and arrange seasonal flowers. We also consider the angle of the garden from the room when arranging the flowers. They are beautiful to look at, delicious to eat, and enjoyable to drink. Creating such an 'out of the ordinary' experience is the hospitality of a traditional Japanese restaurant."

Spreading the knowledge and skills of Japanese cuisine to the world - towards the next generation

The NPO Japanese Culinary Academy, where Kurisu serves as chairman, has been compiling the "Japanese Cuisine Encyclopedia" for the past eight years. Aiming to develop the development of washoku and cultivate talent that will lead washoku culture, the book features explanations by Japan's leading chefs and scholars about the origins, spirit and techniques of Japanese cuisine, and has published five volumes to date. To further publicize the book, they are also working with Kyoto Prefectural University to publish a "Japanese Cuisine Encyclopedia Digital Book (Japanese version/English version)' is published.

"I want to record the knowledge and techniques of Japanese cuisine that I have accumulated over the years so that anyone can learn from them. I would like to lay the groundwork for the birth of chefs who will one day be called 'Living National Treasures.'"

Mr. Kurisu's lecture not only provided an opportunity for participants to marvel at the depth of washoku (traditional Japanese cuisine), but also to recognize once again how important it is for each individual to understand its history and traditions and share its appeal in order to pass on this wonderful culture to future generations.

The next one is scheduled to be released in early to mid-July. We will be delivering the contents of the lecture given by Shingo Sonobe, the owner of Yamabana Heihachi Teahouse, who took the stage on Thursday, May 7th.

Our journey to learn more about Kyoto's food culture continues.

Text by Erina Nomura

Erina Nomura
A writer born in Osaka in 1986 and currently living in Kyoto. After graduating from university, he worked for a production company involved in a variety of media, including publishing, advertising, and the web. In 2020, he went independent and is now working as a freelancer. His areas of interest include craftsmanship, traditional culture, lifestyle, and travel. As a Kyoto correspondent for Premium Japan, he reports on the latest happenings in Kyoto through the "Kyoto News" section of the editorial department's blog.