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2025.11.6

Kyoto in autumn, enveloped in autumn leaves - Enjoy a quiet time on a boat ride on Lake Biwa Canal

On August 27th of this year, the facilities of the Lake Biwa Canal, which connects Lake Biwa and Kyoto, were designated a National Treasure and Important Cultural Property. This artificial waterway, constructed during the Meiji period, is still in use today. In spring and autumn, a limited-time sightseeing boat called the Lake Biwa Canal Cruise operates. In particular, from late November to early December, when the autumn leaves are at their peak, you can enjoy the picturesque scenery along the canal and the luxurious experience of autumn Kyoto from the water.




The area around Keage Ferry Terminal is packed with canal-related attractions, such as Nanzenji Suirokaku, Keage Incline, and Nejirimanpo. Why not enjoy Kyoto from a slightly different angle this autumn?




The Lake Biwa Canal laid the foundation for Kyoto's modernization




Kyoto now attracts people from both within Japan and abroad with its beautiful shrines and temples that change with the seasons, well-maintained gardens, and the traditional culture that lives on in the city. However, during the Meiji period, the city was in a steady decline after the capital was effectively moved to Tokyo.




One of the measures planned to overcome this crisis was the construction of the Lake Biwa Canal, a waterway to bring water from Lake Biwa in Shiga to Kyoto. In addition to securing a water source to support people's lives, industry, and culture, the canal was also used for hydroelectric power generation, greatly contributing to the modernization of Kyoto.




Water transport was once popular, and the area was bustling with ships transporting people and cargo. However, as the transportation network developed, use decreased, and the last sightings were in 1951 (Showa 26). Then, in 2018 (Heisei 30), marking the 150th anniversary of the Meiji era, the "Lake Biwa Canal Boat" was revived as a tourist boat for the first time in 67 years.




The Former Imperial Palace Water Pumping Station (Important Cultural Property), located next to the Keage Ferry Terminal The Former Imperial Palace Water Pumping Station (Important Cultural Property), located next to the Keage Ferry Terminal

The brick building adjacent to the Keage ferry terminal is the "Old Imperial Palace Waterworks Pumping Station (Important Cultural Property)," completed in 1912 (Meiji 45). The building housed a pump that pumped water into a reservoir at the top of Mount Kujo to send fire prevention water to the Kyoto Imperial Palace, and was designed by Katayama Tokuma, who also worked on the old building of the Kyoto National Museum, and Yamamoto Naosaburo, an engineer at the Takumi Bureau.




This popular activity allows visitors to experience the romantic history of modern architecture and the picturesque scenery along the canal, including the three tunnels (First, Second, and Third Tunnels) that were designated as National Treasures this year, Japan's earliest reinforced concrete bridge (Bridge No. 11), which was designated as an Important Cultural Property, and the Otsu Lock, which was built to overcome the difference in water levels between Lake Biwa and the canal.




A maple tunnel seen from the boat




During the operation period, there will be outbound trips departing from Otsu Port/Mii-dera in Shiga and inbound trips departing from Kyoto. The outbound trip will offer a leisurely cruise as you move slowly along with the current of the water, while the inbound trip will offer an exhilarating engine-powered journey against the current, allowing you to enjoy each trip in a different way.




Following the completion of the electrification renovation work at the Otsu Locks, the route was extended to Otsu Port on Lake Biwa last year. In the fall of 2025, the "Lake Biwa-Otsu Cruise" will operate for eight days only, from November 20th to 24th and 27th to 30th, running between Otsu Port and Keage. From the canal boat, you can experience the changes in water level caused by the opening and closing of the locks, and enjoy the widening scenery as you travel from the narrow waterway into Lake Biwa.




Otsu Lock adjusts the water level difference between the canal and Lake Biwa by opening and closing the gates. Otsu Lock adjusts the water level difference between the canal and Lake Biwa by opening and closing the gates.

Both the upbound and downbound services stop temporarily at the Otsu Lock. By opening and closing the sluice gates and adjusting the water level inside the lock chamber, passengers can travel between the canal and Lake Biwa.




Lake Biwa Tsukiji, the gateway from Lake Biwa to the canal Lake Biwa Tsukiji, the gateway from Lake Biwa to the canal

Lake Biwa Tsukiji is the gateway from Lake Biwa to the canal. On the way up, you can experience the feeling of freedom as you pass through the narrow canal and emerge onto Lake Biwa.




Additionally, late November to early December is the best season for viewing autumn leaves, when the maple trees along the canal all change color at once. You'll be mesmerized by the overlapping reds and oranges of the autumn scenery, including the colorful trees you can see beyond the tunnel and the "tunnel of autumn leaves" created by the maple trees covering both banks.




Lake Biwa Canal Boat sailing in the autumn wind Lake Biwa Canal Boat sailing in the autumn wind

The Lake Biwa Canal Boat cruises along in the autumn breeze. The beautiful scenery of the autumn leaves and the canal in perfect harmony is captivating.




A professional guide will accompany you on the boat and explain the sights along the route and related facilities. They will share interesting stories and trivia about the construction of the line, along with jokes typical of the Kansai region, so you're sure to have a great time.




[Lake Biwa Canal Boat]
Autumn 2025 Operation period: Until December 7th (Sunday) *Some days off
Price: 2,500 to 14,000 yen one way (reservation required) *same price for children
Official site:https://biwakososui.kyoto.travel/
Flight schedules and routes vary depending on the season, so please check the official website for details.




Nearby attractions to visit before and after boarding




The Okazaki/Keage area, where the Keage ferry terminal is located, is dotted with many facilities related to the Lake Biwa Canal, including Japan's first commercial hydroelectric power plant, which makes use of the abundant water, and Murin-an, which has a beautiful garden with water drawn from the canal. Among these, Nanzenji Suirokaku and the incline are famous spots for viewing autumn leaves. Why not stop by before or after boarding the canal boat?




Nanzenji Aqueduct




Nanzenji Aqueduct with its series of brick arches Nanzenji Aqueduct with its series of brick arches

Nanzenji Aqueduct is a series of brick arches. If you climb up the slope behind the bridge to the top, you can still see how it carries water from Lake Biwa to Kyoto.




Nanzenji Suirokaku, which crosses the grounds of Nanzenji Temple, is a brick aqueduct constructed in the Meiji era as part of the canal. It has been designated a national treasure along with the first, second, and third tunnels of the Lake Biwa Canal.




Its arched design, reminiscent of ancient Rome, is a renowned beauty. During the autumn foliage season, the area is adorned with bright red maple leaves, creating an even more atmospheric view.




[Nanzenji Aqueduct]
Address: 86 Nanzenji Fukuchicho, Sakyo Ward, Kyoto City




Kicking Incline




Keage Incline: Walk freely on the tracks Keage Incline: Walk freely on the tracks

Now, you can walk freely on the tracks, and the scenery changes with the seasons, from cherry blossoms in spring to fresh greenery in early summer.




This is also a valuable relic designated as a national treasure. In the past, in order to overcome the difference in elevation between the upstream and downstream sides of the canal, canal boats were placed on carts and moved up and down the slope. At approximately 582 meters, the rails, said to be the longest in the world at the time of construction, have been preserved in their original form.




It's known as a famous cherry blossom spot, but the autumn foliage is also beautiful. Although there aren't many trees that change color in autumn, the nostalgic scenery created by the vibrantly colored maples and the remains of the abandoned railway line is impressive.




[Keage Incline]
Address: 339 Higashikomonozacho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto City




Twisted Manpo




The entrance to Nejirimanpo, which passes under the Keage Incline The entrance to Nejirimanpo, which passes under the Keage Incline

Nejiri Manpo was completed in 1888 (Meiji 21). At the entrance, there is a plaque written by Kitagaki Kunimichi, the governor at the time who led the Lake Biwa Canal Project.




Nejirimanpo is a pedestrian tunnel that runs under the Keage Incline. This unique name comes from the old word for tunnel, "manpo," and from the twisted appearance of the spirally stacked bricks.




The reason for the twisted structure is that the tunnel passes through at an angle to the incline. To ensure strength, the bricks were laid in a spiral pattern. Tunnels like this can be seen in other places, but there are only about 20 of them left in the country today.




[Twisted Manpo]
Address: Higashi-Komonoza-cho, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto




The appeal of the Lake Biwa Canal boat ride is not just enjoying the scenery.
This Meiji era feat was accomplished through the high aspirations and passion of our predecessors. Be sure to enjoy a cruise that touches on the historical romance that lives within it.




Text by Erina Nomura

 

Erina Nomura
A writer living in Kyoto. After graduating from university, she worked at a production company involved in a variety of media, including publishing, advertising, and the web. In 2020, she went independent and is now working as a freelancer. Her areas of interest include craftsmanship, traditional culture, lifestyle, and travel. As a Kyoto correspondent for Premium Japan, she reports on the latest happenings in Kyoto through the "Kyoto News" section of the editorial department's blog.







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