Having overcome the unprecedented disaster of the COVID-19 pandemic, humanity seemed to have finally triumphed over a common enemy. However, what followed was an era of blatant conflict. Strong leaders rose to power one after another in various regions, and wars raged all over the world.

Precisely because of these times, I want to embark on a journey to re-examine what peace truly means.

Japan, too, once enjoyed a long and profound period of peace. The Edo Shogunate, established by Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1603, created a world without war for over 260 years. Shizuoka City is a place associated with both Ieyasu, the first Tokugawa shogun, and Yoshinobu, the last shogun who closed the shogunate in the name of peace.

Shizuoka Prefecture boasts many attractive tourist destinations, including the Izu Peninsula with its beautiful coastline and high-quality hot springs, the Fuji area at the foot of the World Heritage site Mount Fuji, and the western area encompassing Lake Hamana, Kakegawa, and Hamamatsu. While the charm of the "central area," where the station bearing the name "Shizuoka" is located, is often overlooked, Tokugawa Ieyasu spent his childhood and one-third of his later years here (then known as Sunpu), and Yoshinobu lived here quietly for about 20 years after the restoration of imperial rule. There is a statue of Lord Ieyasu in front of Shizuoka Station, and the site of Lord Yoshinobu's residence is just a 3-minute walk from the station.

I traveled through the castle town, where the souls of two people who ushered in peace and ended it in peace reside, seeking inspiration for peace.

The starting point of Lord Ieyasu's journey, and the place where the name "Shizuoka" originated.

One place that cannot be missed when talking about places associated with Tokugawa Ieyasu is Shizuoka Sengen Shrine, also known as "Osengen-sama," which is the origin of the name of Shizuoka Prefecture.

Lord Ieyasu spent one-third of his life in Sunpu. "During his childhood as a hostage, he had his coming-of-age ceremony (what we would call an adult ceremony today) at this shrine, under the watchful eye of Lord Imagawa Yoshimoto. This is where Lord Ieyasu's life began," says Yoji Usami, the shrine's priest.

Ieyasu, who later became the ruler of Japan, maintained his reverence for this shrine throughout his life. Before the Battle of Sekigahara, he prayed for victory, and after his victory, he dedicated the war fan he used in the battle. After returning to Sunpu as the retired shogun, he designated it as a place of prayer for the Tokugawa shogunate and donated a vast amount of land to the shrine.

While there are shrines throughout Japan that enshrine Tokugawa Ieyasu as a god, this is the only one in the country where two images of Ieyasu are enshrined on the same grounds, and where he had a connection with the shrine during his lifetime.

It's not just Tokugawa Ieyasu who has a connection to this place; it's also said that in ancient times, Yamato Takeru worshipped Ise Grand Shrine from the summit of Shizuhata Mountain and enshrined the deity here, and Kan'ami, the founder of Noh theater, made his final stage appearance here.

Within the vast 45,000 square meter sacred grounds, numerous shrines are enshrined together. The oldest, Kanbe Shrine, is the oldest shrine in Suruga Province, founded approximately 2100 years ago during the reign of Emperor Sujin. These three shrines, along with Ootoshimioya Shrine, established 1700 years ago, and Asama Shrine, which was branched off from Fujisan Hongu Shrine 1100 years ago, form the core of the area.

Later, during the Meiji era's policy of consolidating shrines, the number of shrines was reduced to seven, but among them, 33 shrines were enshrined together. In total, Shizuoka Sengen Shrine enshrines 40 shrines and 56 deities, and you can entrust all your life's wishes here, from matchmaking and academic success to healing from illness. It is a shrine with depth both historically and religiously, but it is also blessed with nature. The shrine grounds are integrated with the lush greenery of the mountain behind them, and the air changes the moment you step inside. As Mr. Usami was guiding us around the grounds, he suddenly bent down and dipped his hand into a waterway, and a small clam landed in his palm. There seem to be quite a lot of them, and it has been said since ancient times that "eating the clams of Sengen Shrine will cause you to go blind out of awe," so they have been protected. It's a little heartwarming to see this wisdom of nature conservation rooted in daily life. Kingfishers fly to the sacred pond on the grounds, and at night, flying squirrels soar through the trees, and badgers and raccoons can sometimes be seen walking around. It's surprising to find untouched nature remaining in the heart of the city.

This shrine, a crossroads of history, culture, and nature, is actually the origin of the place name "Shizuoka." Originally called "Fuchu," when the name had to be changed after the Meiji Restoration, the name "Shizugaoka" was derived from Shizuhatayama, a mountain towering behind the shrine, and Aobaoka, an ancient name for the area. It was decided that "Shizugaoka, or Shizuoka, would be the best name considering the times and the character of the land," and this was inscribed on a stone monument.

"Quiet Hill"—doesn't this also convey a will for peace?

Lacquer, gold leaf, and craftsmanship-The beauty of the shrine complex, known as "Nikko of the Tokai region"

Since we're here, let's take a closer look at the architecture and decorations of Shizuoka Sengen Shrine.

The first thing that catches the eye is the tower gate standing behind the main gate, and even from this gate, visitors are captivated by its magnificence and exquisite craftsmanship. The golden dragon that stands above the doors, which are closed at night, alone is made of 1000 sheets of gold leaf, and the tower gate as a whole is said to have used approximately 22,000 sheets of gold leaf. In addition to the dragon, various other carvings such as kirin and lions are carved into it, and some parts incorporate a high-quality coloring called "ikezaishiki," which becomes more brilliant over time.

Just beyond the main gate is the dance hall where Kan'ami made his final stage performance. While the surrounding buildings are all dazzling, lacquered and adorned with vibrant colors, this dance hall alone is an unpainted, simple wooden structure that seems to have revived the medieval era.

In addition to "flying dragons" and "waves," there are also carvings of "baku" (mythical creatures that eat metal). "Baku are said to be animals that eat metal. Metal, in other words, refers to weapons. The presence of baku means that there is an abundance of metal—which means there is no war. The presence of baku here is a symbol of peace," says Usami. Incidentally, on top of the pillars of the main shrine built on the mountainside, there are also gold-leafed baku carved as if watching over the land.

Beyond the dance hall, you should find the Great Worship Hall (Ōhaiden), a nationally designated Important Cultural Property boasting a height of 21 meters and "the tallest lacquered shrine building in Japan"...or so you should think.

The building has a unique "Asama-zukuri" style structure, consisting of a two-story building with a gable roof with a chidori-hafu (a type of curved gable) on the first floor, a hipped roof on the second floor, and a small roof on top of that, making it a three-story, two-tiered structure. The tall structure is said to symbolize Mount Fuji, and a sculpture of clouds hanging over Mount Fuji is placed between the first and second floors, with a celestial maiden dancing above it. It is thought that the worldview of a god residing above the clouds of Mount Fuji is superimposed vertically on the building.

Unfortunately, the reason we can't give a definitive answer is that it's currently not visible. Shizuoka Sengen Shrine is currently undergoing a major renovation project called the "Heisei-Reiwa Grand Renovation," which is expected to continue from 2014 until around 2037. This massive renovation project will last for over 25 years and cost a total of 55 billion yen, and the entire main hall is currently covered, making it invisible.

"Even just the gate tower, which was repainted in 2020, took three years just to repaint the lacquer. The construction cost was about 420 million yen, and approximately one ton of lacquer was used," says Usami.

The fact that such a major renovation has been carried out, requiring so much effort, money, and time, speaks volumes about how important this shrine is to Japan.

The Confucian scholar Kaibara Ekiken once wrote that "in Japan, Nikko is the most beautiful shrine, followed by Asama," and praised it as "the Nikko of the Tokai region." I feel hopeful about the efforts to pass on that beauty to future generations. Incidentally, according to Mr. Usami, the gathering of craftsmen for the renovation of the shrine's carvings led to the current local industries such as woodworking, furniture making, and even model making, including plastic models.

Bypassing the main hall, which is under renovation, and proceeding further, a long, horizontal shrine appears. At first glance, it looks like a single shrine. But Mr. Usami said, "Actually, these are two shrines."

Kanbe Shrine and Asama Shrine—two of the three main shrines—live literally "under one roof." This style is called "two shrines in one building." The roof appears to be one, but upon closer inspection, the ridge of the roof is slightly divided into two levels. In the center is a space called the "Aino-ma," which is said to be the room where the Shinto priest once secluded himself for religious ceremonies.

This building has another feature. Asama Shrine is a shrine dedicated to the worship of Mount Fuji, with Konohanasakuya-hime as its main deity. "That's why it's built slightly off-center so that you can worship Mount Fuji directly from the front. The scaffolding for the construction of the main hall is currently blocking that view. Once the scaffolding is removed, you'll be able to see Mount Fuji from here again," says Usami.

While I would certainly like to revisit after the major renovations are complete, I also felt there was something precious about its current state during the renovations, a timeless symbol that connects history to the future.

Mount Fuji across the sea3Ten Thousand Pine Trees-The Miracle of Miho no Matsubara

Although it's far from the station, another must-see attraction in Shizuoka City is Miho no Matsubara (Miho Pine Grove). Located at the tip of the Miho Peninsula, which juts out beyond Shimizu Port, an estimated 3 pine trees cover the coastline, with Suruga Bay stretching out beyond, and on a clear day, Mount Fuji towering 45 kilometers away. This pine grove, which became one of the constituent assets of Mount Fuji's World Cultural Heritage designation in 2013, has been a spot where many people have admired "Mount Fuji across the sea" since ancient times.

In 2013, when Mount Fuji was registered as a World Cultural Heritage site, Miho no Matsubara was included as one of its constituent properties. However, the road to that point was by no means easy.

The biggest problem was the distance. The straight line from Miho no Matsubara to Mount Fuji is approximately 45 kilometers. "Mount Fuji is not here"—this was pointed out during the registration review process, and there were strong calls to exclude it from the constituent properties. ICOMOS (International Council on Monuments and Sites) also reportedly recommended its exclusion at one point.

Nevertheless, the city did not give up and continued its efforts to get the registration approved.

The main argument was based on the inseparable relationship between the two in the world of painting. Sesshu, a sumi-e painter of the Muromachi period, depicted Mount Fuji and Miho no Matsubara as a single landscape from Nihondaira. Similarly, Edo ukiyo-e artists, including Hokusai, repeatedly chose Mount Fuji across the pine grove as a subject for their paintings. Furthermore, from a religious perspective, it was shown that Mount Fuji and Miho no Matsubara have been recognized as a single entity, "a boundary connecting the human world and heaven."

Ultimately, the appeal was accepted. Miho no Matsubara achieved an unprecedented reversal in its registration as the "most remote" of the 25 constituent sites of the Mount Fuji World Cultural Heritage site. The registered area is a complex mix of national forests, prefectural forests, parks, and privately owned land, with management jurisdictions divided, making conservation and utilization extremely difficult. However, the registration has also led to a rare success story nationwide in controlling pine wilt disease, a serious problem across the country.

Although I didn't have time to visit this time, the Miho no Matsubara Cultural Creation Center "Mihoshirube" is located very close by, and it introduces the value and charm of Mount Fuji as a scenic spot and a component of the World Cultural Heritage site "Mount Fuji - Object of Worship and Source of Art," as well as the importance of preserving the pine forest.

What surprised me, however, was the beautifully maintained row of pine trees known as the "Path of the Gods" that runs in front of the Cultural Creation Center, and the sight of ordinary houses lined up in front of these beautiful trees. From the gardens, you can see Mount Fuji through the pines, and in the mornings, the scent of the sea from Suruga Bay fills the air. To live with the spectacular view of a World Heritage site as a window into your daily life—isn't this the ultimate luxury?

I felt that the luxury of having such beautiful scenery as a matter of course in one's everyday living space might be the source of the civic spirit that desires peace.

Incidentally, in the center of the pine grove is the "Hagoromo Pine." There is a legend that a celestial maiden hung her feathered robe on this tree, but the original tree is now in the sea, and the current tree, the third generation, carries on the legend. This giant tree, which is about 200 to 300 years old, stretches its trunk towards the sea, and its appearance is like spreading wings.

Enjoy the flavors of Rosanjin in the garden where Lord Yoshinobu admired the moon.

There's another place in Shizuoka City I'd like to introduce. It's a traditional Japanese restaurant called "Fugetsuro," quietly nestled just a 3-minute walk from Shizuoka Station—and it's actually the former site of the residence of Tokugawa Yoshinobu.

After the Meiji Restoration, Yoshinobu moved to Shizuoka and spent approximately 20 years there, from 2 to 21. He distanced himself completely from politics and devoted himself to hunting, oil painting, and photography. He would go to the rivers and swamps in the city to chase ducks, and it is said that he even traveled as far as Mount Amagi in Izu. The samurai who survived the turbulent times ended his life as a quiet man of hobbies. The citizens of Shizuoka still affectionately call him "Keiki-sama."

The garden built by Tokugawa Yoshinobu was the work of Jihei Ogawa, a renowned landscape gardener whose work dates back to the Edo period. At that time, the grounds were nearly twice the size of the current site, covering over 4500 tsubo (approximately 15,500 square meters), and featured numerous ponds of varying sizes. The remaining pond-centered strolling garden still displays seasonal flowers such as red and white plum blossoms, Higan cherry blossoms, Somei Yoshino cherry blossoms, hydrangeas, and camellias, showcasing the beauty of each season. The clear waters of the Abe River circulate through the garden, and the spring elm trees are reflected on the water's surface. The garden was named "Fugetsuro" (Floating Moon Pavilion) because of the sight of the moon reflected on the pond.

The building also excels in architecture; the restaurant building, designed in the early Showa period by Isoya Yoshida, a master of modern Japanese sukiya architecture, was destroyed by fire during the war, but was rebuilt while continuing Yoshida's design principles.

In 2025, the historic Fugetsuro building welcomed the opening of "Fugetsukaryo," an experiential gallery and salon. Based on the concept that "transformation lurks within flowers," it is a space that abstracts the life force of nature and connects the ancient Japanese view of nature to the future in a new form.

At lunchtime, they offer the "Hanaryo Gozen," a special meal embodying the spirit of tea ceremony cuisine, available in two sittings (11:00 AM and 1:00 PM) on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays, Sundays, and holidays, with only six seats available. Grilled dishes prepared on the spot, featuring mountain vegetables and bamboo shoots that sprout in spring, and mushrooms that lurk in autumn, are served along with a seasonal assortment of eight small dishes, and the meal concludes with thin matcha tea. The tableware is the work of world-renowned ceramic artist Shozo Michikawa, who resides in Shizuoka, and his masterpieces of contemporary ceramics, acclaimed in various galleries, adorn the tranquil dining table. The cuisine follows in the tradition of "Hoshioka Saryo," the last establishment run by the gourmet and artist Rosanjin Kitaoji, and also incorporates dishes based on the lineage of Shuji Iseki, who carries on his philosophy. The menu changes monthly to coincide with the 24 solar terms, with seasonal blessings being served one dish at a time.

At night, the same space transforms into BAR KARYO. You can settle into a seat at the counter, which is made of 2000-year-old cedar wood encased in resin, and sip your drink while gazing at the Fugetsu Garden. In a tranquility different from that of the daytime tea ceremony, the garden where Lord Yoshinobu admired the moon unfolds in the darkness of the night.

Wasabi harvested in a kingdom of mountains and sea, and soba noodles eaten there.

Of course, food is also one of Shizuoka City's attractions. First, we must talk about the topography. The highest point in Shizuoka City is 3100 meters above sea level, and the deepest part of Suruga Bay is 2500 meters deep. The difference in elevation is almost comparable to that of Kilimanjaro. This extreme topography produces abundant water, bringing blessings from both the mountains and the sea. "There are many cities where you can eat delicious food if you have the money. But the fact that you can find high-quality products in the ordinary fresh fish section of an ordinary supermarket is a source of pride for the citizens of Shizuoka."

Shimizu Port in Shizuoka City is responsible for about half of Japan's tuna landings. Tuna caught in seas all over the world gather here, and every part, from the eyeball to the tail, is available in the market. In recent years, mock auctions for the general public have also been held, allowing visitors to experience the atmosphere of the port. Suruga Bay is also home to sakura shrimp, which are produced in only two places in the world. Fried sakura shrimp made from fresh sakura shrimp, the aroma of the sea that rises the moment you open a can, the fluffy sweetness of boiled whitebait—things that are rare in other regions are commonplace on dinner tables here. Combined with Shizuoka City's other specialty, canning technology, it's also fun to find many unique canned goods that can only be bought here.

Shizuoka City is rich in mountain produce, but one thing you absolutely can't miss is wasabi.

Two hours upstream along the Abe River lies the Utogi settlement in the innermost part of Shizuoka City, considered the birthplace of wasabi cultivation in Japan. Some wasabi fields even offer wasabi harvesting experiences. The peak season is from October to November, when it is said to have "the best balance of aroma, flavor, and spiciness." The stems, leaves, flowers, and roots are all edible.

For dinner in Shizuoka, the conventional choice might be to go for seafood, but I was recommended a soba noodle restaurant called "Tagata," and it turned out to be quite interesting.

In fact, Shizuoka has a deep connection with soba noodles. 800 years ago, Shoichi Kokushi, a native of Shizuoka, brought flour milling technology from China and popularized soba in Japan. This soba was then introduced to Edo by Ieyasu and became the prototype for "Edo-style soba." After the Meiji Restoration, an attendant of Yoshinobu brought the developed Edo soba back to Sunpu—in other words, soba culture traveled back and forth between Shizuoka and Edo along with the Tokugawa shogunate.

The owner, Osamu Tagata, quit his job after more than 10 years as a salesman the moment he smelled the aroma of Shizuoka's native buckwheat. For the evening course, if the guest requests it, he will make the soba noodles right in front of them on the stage on the first floor before the meal. The moment water is added to the flour, a sweet and fragrant aroma like nuts rises, and when you eat the freshly made "mizu soba" (soba with water) without any condiments, the scent of the mountains of Shizuoka melts and spreads in your mouth. He says he created this space specifically because he wanted others to experience this experience that changed his life.

In fact, he shared the same experience at the Milan Expo in 2015. At that year's Milan Expo, Yamanashi and Shizuoka prefectures jointly created "Mount Fuji Week," and he was given the opportunity to perform on the Japan Pavilion stage eight times. On a stage equipped with cameras and screens, he demonstrated Edo-style soba noodle making while talking about the history of soba. He said the biggest applause came when the round dough transformed into a square. "Here we go. 3, 2, 1—ta-da!" he said, and the audience erupted in cheers. Italians waited in line for eight or nine hours. "They were so delighted, and I got hooked. It really was a once-in-a-lifetime experience," he recalls.

"When I say I'm from Shizuoka, nobody knows who I'm from. But when I say I'm from the foot of Mount Fuji, people are like, 'Wow!' That's why I'm convinced Shizuoka should go out into the world," says Tagata. "Shizuoka is a warehouse of amazing food ingredients," he adds proudly.

The words Mr. Tagata spoke while making soba noodles stayed in my mind even on the bullet train ride home. "If you practice slash-and-burn agriculture, forests will grow. When forests grow, rivers and seas will grow. It's impossible in our lifetime. But if someone starts it, Shizuoka will be prosperous 300 years from now."

Mr. Usami of Asama Shrine was also cultivating lacquer trees in a corner of the shrine grounds. He is currently planting these trees, which need to be grown for 15 years before they can be used, in preparation for restoration work 25 years from now.

Isn't peace about living each day carefully, while believing in a distant future? The inspiration we seek in Shizuoka, living in a century of war, actually lies there. In this castle town, where Tokugawa Ieyasu established a peaceful shogunate and Yoshinobu ended it without bloodshed, such wisdom, nurtured over a long period of time, still breathes, as its name "Quiet Hill" suggests.