Obi “Lacquered Daika Nishiki” (Tatsumura Art Textiles)

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A selection of early spring kimonos to wear in Reiwa

2020.1.21

9. Tatsumura Art Textiles - Sublimating various traditional crafts and Japanese aesthetic sense into obi obi

Obi “Lacquered Daika Nishiki” (Tatsumura Art Textiles)

Kimonos and obi are indispensable for special occasions such as coming-of-age ceremonies and weddings. The spirit of Heizo Tatsumura, the founder of Tatsumura, laid the foundation for the elegance of Tatsumura's textiles, which is renowned for its excellence in art textiles and loved by many female writers and actresses, and which is still fresh and classy even in the modern era of Reiwa. I will also introduce this.

 

 

Reproducing the essence of Japanese crafts such as maki-e and metalwork on obi

There are ways to express the shape of masterpieces of pottery and lacquer crafts through dyeing and weaving. How can we realistically express the original poem, or actual craft, as cloth with a beautiful composition? This is nothing but expression with technique, sense, and homage to the song.

 

Heizo Tatsumura (1876-1967) was the founder of Tatsumura Art Textiles, devoted himself to researching dyeing and weaving, and was famous as a great producer in the world of modern dyeing and weaving. One of his great accomplishments was the beauty of expressing actual crafts through dyeing, a quality that continues to be passed down to the present day. The obi shown in the photo, ``Lacquered Daika Nishiki,'' was inspired by the door decorations of Western-style buildings. It is a type of lacquer lacquer technique used to create a highly raised, three-dimensional effect on the door, which uses taka lacquer lacquer to give it a three-dimensional appearance, as well as mother-of-pearl (mother-of-pearl) work, which is created using the seven-colored glittering parts of the inside of a shell. The threads made by finely cutting washi paper with foil pasted on it are called haku threads, and the use of lacquer leaf, colored leaf, and other threads beautifully captures the complex expressions of maki-e.

Obi "Yoeihoka Nishiki" (Tatsumura Art Textiles) The openwork technique of metalwork is expressed on the obi. Obi "Yoeihoka Nishiki" (Tatsumura Art Textiles) The openwork technique of metalwork is expressed on the obi.

Obi “Yoei Yoshika Nishiki” (Tatsumura Art Textiles)

Expressing the openwork technique of metalwork on the obi

Obi "Souka Haruei Nishiki" (Tatsumura Art Textiles) A ​​fukuro obi with the theme of decorative paintings adorning the pillars of temples. Obi "Souka Haruei Nishiki" (Tatsumura Art Textiles) A ​​fukuro obi with the theme of decorative paintings adorning the pillars of temples.

Obi "Soka Haruei Nishiki" (Tatsumura Art Textiles)

Fukuro obi based on decorative paintings decorating temple pillars


As times have passed, more and more obi obi have been created that depict masterpieces other than dyed and woven textiles. For example, the poem ``Youei Hokanishiki'' in the center of the photo is based on the treasured metalwork crafts of a temple in Nara Prefecture. The gold thread on the black obi expresses the national treasure of the Kamakura Period's finest metalwork shari pagoda, with its elegant peonies and gentians, as well as the delicate curves and watermarks of the arabesque metalwork. In addition, the gorgeous ``Sokayo Einishiki'' that goes well with long-sleeved kimonos and other items is based on the decorative paintings that decorate the pillars of temples. The flower diamond pattern and large and small Hosouge (a type of arabesque pattern) painted on the pillars create a gorgeous décor.

Obi: Tatsumura Art Textile

https://www.tatsumura.co.jp/

text by Akira Tanaka

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