The Japanese food and beverage industry is dominated by excellent restaurants, including not only Japanese cuisine but also French, Italian, and Chinese cuisine. However, if you look deeper than that, you will see that a new generation has sprouted that will carry the future of Japan's food on their shoulders, and they are showing remarkable success. The "Premium Japan" editorial department selected 12 chefs who face food beyond all boundaries. I asked him what vector he was aiming for.

The time has come for chefs to think

On March 2020, 24, due to the effects of the new coronavirus, Asia's 50 Best Restaurants, which was announced simultaneously worldwide via online streaming, was ranked among Japanese restaurants for the third consecutive year since 2018. “Den” came out on top. In the overall ranking, he ranked 3rd place following last year, and the moment the announcement was made, many fans of ``Den'' who had been waiting for the moment to come out breathed a sigh of relief, but it turned out that the person in question... The complicated expression on Chef Zaisuke Hasegawa's face was due to the fact that it was not about the ranking.

“Now that the new coronavirus is a serious situation that is engulfing the world, it is also a major issue that will affect the future of the food and beverage industry.Of course, I am not interested in rankings.However, to be honest, I am more interested in rankings than my own rankings. I was distracted by the ups and downs of other restaurants.The 50 Best Restaurants in Asia don't go up because they worked hard, or go down because they relaxed.From the perspective of the people who choose them. I think this competition is a place for us to reconsider ourselves."

Every year, Hasegawa takes to the awards stage with the store's staff and brings energy to the audience with his big smile, but this year, as a result of restrictions on the number of people who can enter the venue, A solo award. “It’s a little lonely,” she says with a laugh. He seems to be the only person in the world to have won the Art of Hospitality Award, which is given to the restaurant that most pleases its customers and provides the warmest service, in both the Asia's 50 Best Restaurants and the World's 50 Best Restaurants competitions. .
Hasegawa says, ``I think the time has come for chefs to be reconsidered.'' I wonder what it means.

Declaring that "branding is unnecessary for restaurants"

In 2008, at the age of 28, he opened his own shop, Den. He has been running for the past 12 years. Although he doesn't like it when people say this, it has a long history as a restaurant that is extremely difficult to make reservations for. What underpins this restaurant's overwhelming popularity is not only the taste of the carefully prepared food, but also the unique sense of distance between the restaurant and its customers. It's always bustling with activity, and even for first-time visitors, there's always a moment before they leave that makes them realize how much they're being taken care of, and they can't help but make their next reservation with a warm, warm feeling. Noda. With the popularity of Japanese food these days, even restaurants where the average customer spend exceeds 5 yen are often considered unprofitable, but Den is constantly working on ways to avoid this.

Hasegawa says. ``I don't want to teach the staff at the store the essence of cooking. There are many great restaurants that are better suited for that. But I can teach them in a way that will be loved by the customers. I think a next-generation restaurant with thorough branding is very attractive, but Den doesn't need that. I personally think that it will come later."

He has maintained his position as the top restaurant in Japan for three years in a row, but he says, ``As long as it's not as lame as it was the day before, I'm fine with it.'' Instead, there are so many issues occupying our minds right now, such as the wonders of Japan's food resources, concerns about the environment that threatens them, and the food and beverage industry, which is losing its vitality due to the new coronavirus. Of course, one of them is always how to make our valued customers even happier the next time they come.

The ``50 Best Restaurants'' is considered the world's most advanced restaurant award. However, as one of the top runners, Hasegawa's thoughts are more toward his fellow chefs than himself. ``I pray that the day will come soon when all chefs around the world can open their doors with smiles on their faces,'' he said on stage on a sunny day, with the trophy in his heart, making an impression.

ZAIYU HASEGAWA
Born in 1978, from Tokyo. After graduating from high school, she trained at the long-established Japanese restaurant ``Uwotoku''. Opened “Den” in 2008. In 2016, moved to Jingumae. In the same year, she debuted on the list of ``Asia's 50 Best Restaurants'' at number 37. Ranked 2018th in the 50 "World's 17 Best Restaurants". Always popular for its unpretentious cuisine, personality, and innovative presentations.

Den
Architectural Hall JIA Building, 2-3-18 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
03-6455-5433
18: 00-23: 30 (LO22: 30)
Closed on Sundays
Omakase course only 16,000 yen
*Tax and service charge not included

(Titles omitted)

*In order to prevent the spread of the new coronavirus infection, the restaurant information posted on this site may have changed. Please check the latest information from the official website etc.