French restaurant “Cotosier” with a wonderful view from the window
Hotel Granvia Kyoto, which opened in 1997 as a hotel directly connected to JR Kyoto Station, has been attracting attention not only in Kyoto but also nationwide for its excellent dining experience since its opening. The main dining room at Hotel Granvia Kyoto is Kotosiere. "Coto" means "ancient city" and "Sierre" means blue sky in French. As the name ``View & Dining'' suggests, it is a French restaurant with a spectacular view from the 15th-floor windows on the top floor, overlooking the southwest side of Kyoto and the city buildings of Osaka in the distance.
The chef is Hideki Kawamoto. He is an up-and-coming chef who became the chef of ``Cotosiere'' in his 30s.
Iridescent shine created by exquisite pasteurization
“Perfect pasteurization was achieved.”
With a satisfied smile, the chef himself served us the fish dishes. A 4-kilogram striped cod fish caught off the coast of Kochi Prefecture was tightened on board the boat, and even after resting in the kitchen for eight days, it was still as tight as it could be. The surface of the fillet shines in a rainbow color.
Sujiara from Kochi prefecture with mackerel heshiko sauce. Served with Yosano hops, unripe strawberries, and oxalis.
It is a cooking method called ``cuisson nacre'' in French, in which the food is cooked slowly at a low temperature, and the rainbow color is a sign that the food has been cooked while retaining its freshness and flavor. I bit into my crumbling body. The flavor of the plump white meat goes well with the rich and nutritious sauce containing mackerel heshiko. The unripe strawberries used as a substitute for the citrus sourness and the oxalis on the side give it a refreshing sourness, making this a dish made with all of Cotosiere's strength.
The view from Kotosiere, located on the 15th floor, is spectacular, and on clear days you can even see Abeno Harukas.
In 2014, at the young age of 28, Chef Hideki Kawamoto took a leave of absence and went to France to study cooking. He trained at four Michelin-starred restaurants in one year.
Because Kyoto is known for its beef culture, Kuroge Wagyu beef is served using branded beef.
The meat dish for this day's course was boiled Kuroge Wagyu beef "Kyo no Meat". The thick cedar planks are made of Kitayama cedar.
Poiled Japanese black beef fillet "Kyo no Meat". Kitayama cedar vessels have been used at Kotosiere since it opened.
``This is a cedar board that has been used since the opening of ``Kotoshieru.'' Even though it has been a long time since this bowl was made, it still smells like cedar, and it adds to the aroma of grilled beef. This is a place where beef is overwhelmingly good, especially fillet meat.Since we serve beef in such a local area, we are very careful about the quality of the beef we serve, and use a brand of beef called ``Kyoto Niku.''
"Don't add too much flavor to the sauce." Impressive words from the general manager
The two signature dishes of fish and meat also incorporate the culinary philosophy of Hotel Granvia Kyoto and Chef Kawamoto. Most of the fish purchased by box from Sukumo Fishing Port in Kochi is currently in season. Moreover, the species of fish can only be determined when the lid is opened in the kitchen.
A plate of fish from the sea of Kochi. Along with a saffron-flavored soup de poisson made from that ara.
``On that day, we all discuss and decide what to make.The people at the fishing port are the most happy to know that fish that is only consumed locally can be turned into a dish like this.I myself am one of them. That's what makes me the happiest."
Pigeon from Brittany and foie gras wrapped in cabbage. truffle scent
``Pigeon is truly a classic dish.I tried making it more than 10 times while listening to General Manager Sato's opinion.I learned a lot from receiving detailed advice such as how to cook the pigeon meat and cabbage. What left an impression on me was the comment, ``Don't put too much flavor in the sauce.'' This means that this dish is not about eating the sauce, but about the flavor of the ingredients.''
Enjoy pairing with wine carefully selected by a sommelier at the regularly held "wine party"
Cotosiere holds a ``Chef's Dinner'' on the 20th of even-numbered months, and a ``Wine Party'' on the second Thursday of odd-numbered months. If it's a ``Chef's Dinner,'' Chef Kawamoto will come to the audience and explain the dishes, and if it's a ``Wine Party,'' the sommelier will be in charge of pairing the dishes. By doing so, guests' opinions can be more directly reflected in the food and drinks.
The service that can only be enjoyed at a hotel is comfortable.
A wide variety of dining options to suit any occasion
In addition to Cotosiere, Hotel Granvia Kyoto has directly managed restaurants such as Teppanyaki restaurant Gozanbo, Japanese restaurant Ukihashi, all-day dining restaurant Le Temps, and bar Orvit. The buffet at Le Temps is especially fulfilling. During dinner time, a sushi counter is set up, where a sushi chef prepares the day's recommended sushi toppings right in front of your eyes.At a special drink corner, sommeliers and bartenders from the hotel's restaurant prepare the dishes. They will choose a drink that matches your taste. In addition to Kaiseki cuisine, Ukihashi also offers a dinner-only Obanzai menu, which is popular among tourists as it allows you to grab a bite to eat before boarding the Shinkansen.
Le Temps is a buffet where you can enjoy a variety of dishes. It is very popular because the price includes wine and cocktails that match the food.
The Japanese restaurant ``Ukihashi'' has a strong image of being a kaiseki meal, but there is actually an area where you can enjoy sake with ``Obanzai.'' The reason why you can enjoy a bowl of obanzai before heading out on your journey is because it is directly connected to Kyoto Station.
Collaboration between alcoholic drinks made by bartenders and food
Mr. Sato, who was appointed general manager in 2019, is drawing on his experience as an executive chef to propose various reforms in the hotel's food and beverage department.
“We are starting an initiative to match drinks made by bartenders with food.In addition to sommeliers serving wine, there is also a scene where bartenders go into restaurants and create drinks that go well with the food. I think it's good.There are many good bartenders, but the recent trend is that there are fewer places where bartenders can work.A good bar and good bartenders.Those are the conditions for a good hotel. In order to maintain this, I think it is important to create opportunities for barenders to participate in restaurants.A good hotel and good dining cannot be created unless the cooks, the service, the sommelier, and the bartender all work together.''
The bartenders who work at the main bar "Orbit" will also work at the restaurant.
The flow of luxury hotels in Paris will soon come to Japan.
When he has time, Sato enjoys eating delicious food and going to popular places. This is to determine what will capture people's interest and what will become mainstream. Before the coronavirus pandemic, he visited Paris many times.
“I love luxury hotels in Paris, like Hotel Le Bristol Paris. I think it's really wonderful. Everything is top notch. Most of these hotels in Paris have three-star restaurants in their premises. In other words, we place a lot of emphasis on dining. This trend is already coming to Japan. That's why we have to enhance our dining experience more than ever."
The trend of luxury hotels is coming soon. This is nothing but an enriching dining experience. Hotel Granvia Kyoto was quick to catch this trend and is proceeding with reforms.
Mr. Sato's passion for food is evident wherever you visit the hotel's dining rooms. I'm sure she will continue to aim to be the ``Granvia of Food'' and deliver good fortune.
On this day, I was in the kitchen of the banquet hall. While casually talking to the staff, I carefully inspected each dish.
Hotel Granvia Kyoto
JR Kyoto Station Central Exit, Karasuma Dori Shiokoji Shimoru, Shimogyo Ward, Kyoto City
Photography by Makoto Itoh
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