"MUNI KYOTO" is a small luxury hotel located right next to Togetsukyo Bridge in Kyoto. Although the building is largely Western-style, it features Japanese design elements throughout, fitting for the location in Arashiyama, where nobles once had their second homes.

Once you step inside, you'll be delighted to find that the facility is surrounded by a silence that is far removed from the hustle and bustle of tourists.

Two disciples of the "Emperor of Food" hold dinner in Kyoto

Recently, the two chefs, both of whom are close disciples of Alain Ducasse, came together for a four-hands dinner at the hotel's signature restaurant.

There is no need to explain anything about Mr. Ducasse. He is a giant in the culinary world, representing France, and indeed the world. He is the first chef in the world to receive three Michelin stars in restaurants under his own name in two different countries, Monaco and London. He now oversees 30 restaurants in nine countries, and has expanded into chocolate and coffee specialty shops, making him what could be called the "Emperor of Food."

Coming to Japan from Paris was Amaury Boeur, executive chef of the two-star restaurant "Le Meurice Alain Ducasse" at the iconic French palace hotel "Le Meurice, Dorchester Collection." He was welcomed by Alessandro Galdiani, executive chef of "MUNI Alain Ducasse," a restaurant within "MUNI KYOTO."

The two inherit the Ducasse DNA

The two were former colleagues who honed their skills together in the kitchens of Le Meurice. Both have been students of Ducasse for over ten years, and it could be said that they are the ones who have inherited their master's DNA the most.

Mr. Galdiani from Kyoto, who has been in Japan for two years and ten months, spoke about this.

"It's been a while since we've cooked together, but it's a lot of fun creating something together. I think it will be very stimulating for both our team and our guests.

We both share Ducasse's techniques, but the taste of Japanese ingredients is different even if they are the same. We carefully considered how to harmonize traditional recipes with new ingredients."

I asked about Ducasse's DNA.

"Ducasse's greatness is so varied that it's not easy to talk about it all. If we limit it to cooking, it would be that he incorporated various elements from around the world as he traveled. He had a solid base of classic French cuisine, to which he added the essence of cuisines from around the world."

How will Mr. Buur respond when he visits Japan?

"I began my internship at Le Louis XIV in Monaco, and then moved to the Plaza Athénée in Paris. I worked with Mr. Ducasse for 18 years, so I learned a lot from him. For example, at the Plaza Athénée, there is a never-ending evolution. It is no exaggeration to say that not only the creation of food, but also the sommeliers and table service are constantly changing.

Of course, there are many differences between Le Louis XIV and Plaza Athénée, but the same is true here in Kyoto. Traditional cuisine is always there, and adding an element of evolution to it - that is the DNA of Ducasse."

I was amazed by the high quality of Japanese seafood and vegetables.

Now, let's move on to the course meal.

First, four creative canapes paired with excellent champagne (Antoine Bouvet) and then an oyster and gin and tonic sorbet cocktail were served, followed by appetizers.

Bouhl's "Scallops with Radish and Nasturtium" is a beautiful dish, with colorful turnips delicately sliced ​​and arranged in a circle, beneath which the scallops are hidden, marinated in yuzu pepper and jasmine powder, and served in a fragrant olive oil sauce thickened with, of all things, arrowroot.

Bouur visits the market every day when he comes to Kyoto. He says he was "amazed by the incredible quality of Japanese ingredients, especially the fish, shellfish and vegetables." Galdiani's experience working with Japanese ingredients for the past two years has given him hints and enriched their collaboration. Using new ingredients is the same as creating something new, and it works perfectly.

This dish is sharply defined by its acidity, but the crunchy turnips and soft, sweet scallops are all held together by a mixture of tomato water, olive oil, and a thickened dollop of arrowroot.

"Of course, the premise is to maintain a certain strength in the philosophy of French cuisine. On the other hand, Japanese food culture places great importance on the flavor of the ingredients. So we try to focus on not overcooking the ingredients, and on bringing out their natural flavor," says Bououle.

The magic of layered construction

Galdiani says:

"I spent my first year in Japan discovering and understanding ingredients and building relationships with producers. It wasn't until my second year that I was able to devote myself to creating."

The second dish, "Emulsion of Nagasaki Grouper, Beetroot, Radicchio and Champagne," is a grilled dish made with grouper, a luxury fish that he likely discovered in Japan.

The pink beet and radicchio emulsion sauce was outstanding. The tiny bits of caviar sprinkled on top added depth of flavor to the sauce. The marinated beet on the side, when mixed with the half-cooked grouper and sauce, created an amazing synergistic effect.

The characteristics of the cuisine expressed by Alain Ducasse's disciples are already clear.

A well-grilled fish is paired with a delicious sauce. But cooking doesn't end with such a one-to-one correspondence. Ducasse's culinary philosophy is to pile up multiple layers of flavors, and when they converge in the mouth, they are designed to deliver a shock like nothing you've ever experienced before.

It's not just the magic of the source that's enough; it's the magic of construction.

Lobster curry powder surprise

Next, Bououlle's "Lobster Crustian with Celery, Beef Bone Marrow and Lovage" (top image) is one of Le Meurice's signature dishes. The lobster is covered in crustian (batter) and deep-fried like a spring roll. It is garnished with parsley and lovage (herbs), with a tiny amount of tamarind (curry powder) as a spice. It is precisely in this use of spices that is not found in ordinary French cuisine that the Ducasse DNA is truly evident.

The bounty of the sea continues. Galdiani's "Pine-smoked Abalone with Purple Artichoke Sauce Salmi" is, as the name suggests, smoked abalone from Hokkaido. Two types of sauce are used.

The sauce is a mustard-colored sabayon sauce mixed with watercress puree and abalone liver-based sauce. The former sabayon sauce is also a variation, but the latter sauce surprised me. It is infused with Japanese culture, which is to fully enjoy even the liver. The bitter accent of sliced ​​artichokes is also refreshing.

"Japanese abalone is completely different from French abalone in terms of freshness and texture. We smoked it to make it closer to raw."

In any case, the food stimulates all taste buds and is delicious. The layers of flavors pile up one after another, and I feel that this is the essence of Ducasse's culinary philosophy.

Perfectly cooked Wagyu beef with a deep flavour

The final main course will be Bouhl's Charbroiled Marinated Beef with Romaine Lettuce, Olives and Mint.

"The original recipe calls for veal, but this time I used Wagyu beef. In my opinion, Wagyu beef is quite different from French beef. It's similar to butter, so I was careful not to overcook it."

The cooking seemed perfect. The meat was marinated and perhaps coated with miso before being grilled, giving it a deep flavor. The charred romaine lettuce added a bitter flavor, but the way the mint and olive oil sauce was layered on top of each other was simply magnificent.

The final dessert, "Nara Prefecture Strawberries and Vanilla Wasabi," was created by Galdiani. It was made by grilling marinated strawberries and combining them with wasabi ice cream. It was a unique taste.

Finally, Buur speaks.

"It's very interesting how crops and meats vary from region to region in Japan. What surprised me the most was the high quality of the sake and whiskey. They really inspire me. Pairing sake with French cuisine is not easy, but I'd like to try it someday."

Stay at MUNI overlooking the Katsura River and Arashiyama

Returning to the topic of the facility, there is another restaurant supervised by Ducasse, "MUNI La Terrasse," where you can enjoy breakfast, lunch, and tea time. It is extremely pleasant to spend time there while looking out over the Katsura River, Togetsukyo Bridge, and Arashiyama scenery that spreads out before your eyes.

There are 21 guest rooms in total. They have high ceilings, are minimalist and nothing unnecessary, and the soft colors based on white plaster and wood enhance the comfort. The view from the rooms facing the Katsura River is amazing. The fact that you can see the view from the bathroom is also a nice touch.

If you want to experience a MUNI stay in Kyoto, choose "MUNI KYOTO" and you'll be guaranteed a truly exquisite stay.

MUNI KYOTO

Address: 3, Munnobaba-cho, Sagatenryuji, Ukyo-ku, Kyoto City, Kyoto Prefecture
075-863-1110

MUNI ALAIN DUCASSE

TEL: 075-873-7771 (10:00-18:00)
Business hours: 17:30~ (last entry 19:00)
Closed: Wednesday
Menu: Course menu only
LES SIGNATURES (38,000 dishes) XNUMX yen
LES PRÉMISSE (30,000 dishes) XNUMX yen
(Tax included, 15% service charge not included)