"Pride of the Inn" is a series that introduces the proprietresses and managers of inns that are members of "The Ryokan Collection." This time, we will be introducing Kohei Yamada, the president of "Hanamurasaki" in Yamanaka Onsen, Kaga City, Ishikawa Prefecture.

Yamanaka Onsen is one of the most famous hot spring resorts in Ishikawa Prefecture. It is said that 1300 years ago, the great priest Gyoki discovered the source of Yamanaka Onsen. It was around 2024 that people started to say that the long-established inn "Hanamurasaki" was "something amazing." The bold renovations made by the young head of the inn, Kohei Yamada, started to become a hot topic, and the rumors reached all the way to Tokyo.

The name of the inn "Hanamurasaki" comes from the phrase "Sanshisuimei" (mountain and water), which praises the beauty of the region. Entering the inn through a large noren curtain with a double circle symbol on a white background, the first thing that impressed me was the smiles and refreshing greetings of the young staff.

Well, it's rare to find a hotel or ryokan in Japan that spreads such a pleasant smile. For a moment, I had the illusion that I was in a high-quality resort hotel in Bali or Phuket. This will completely change the general image people have of ryokans. This is an inn run mainly by young people, including the president and his wife. I spoke to President Yamada, who welcomed me, about the core of the renovation and reform.

What I want to convey to customers through the inn business

"What triggered it was the closure of our business during the COVID-19 pandemic. Until then, I had been so busy with my daily work that it was a little difficult to think carefully. The closure gave me the opportunity to stop and think about the vague questions that had been lingering in my mind for a while, like the nature of the hospitality industry and what travel really is. In that sense, the closure may have been a stroke of luck brought about by the COVID-19 pandemic.

When I asked myself whether I would continue operating the inn in the same way even after the COVID-19 pandemic was over, I realized that there must be something I wanted to convey through the inn business. I also had an image of what I envisioned the inn to be like. So I decided to embark on the renovation."

"Although it is inseparable from the new vision I have for the inn, there was one thing I wanted to make a premise for before anything else. That was how we could transform the inn into one that would provide even greater satisfaction to our guests. In other words, is there anything else we can do for our guests besides coming to our inn to soak in the hot springs, eat, and rest? I thought it would be great to create something like 'value' that they could feel during their stay. No, I wanted to create new value at all costs.

Before that, as a service industry, I felt like I was exhausted from doing everything I could to serve my customers. Of course, there are ways to use that energy, but I don't think that's what I'm aiming for. I want my customers to enjoy the 'value' that they can't find at other inns. I thought that if I could propose this to my customers, the value of the inn itself would naturally increase."

Becoming one of the regional hubs for Japanese culture

"The key to this value is not to preserve Japanese culture as it is, but to convey it in a modern form. We wanted to aim to create a place where guests can experience the good things and culture of Japan and this region through their accommodation experience. To be specific, some of the traditional aspects would be proposing new meals and new ways to enjoy baths. In terms of new creations, we hope to become a hub for Hokuriku crafts, art, and food culture, including tea.

In other words, we often feel the terroir (the climate and characteristics unique to a place) in food and drinks. But at Hanamurasaki, we don't stop there. Everything from the tableware, the space, the hot springs, and even the art is a part of the terroir that conveys the charm of this place.

As for crafts and art, we wanted to aim for an inn that would not only exhibit them within the building, but also allow guests to experience interacting with local artists, mainly those from Ishikawa Prefecture and the Hokuriku region. The idea is for guests to spend time surrounded by works created in the local environment, and even to take them to the artists' studios if they wish. I believe that the role of an inn is to allow guests to experience the charm of the entire region. This area also has that kind of charm that you can't find in the city.

"Ishikawa and the Hokuriku region are home to many artists in a variety of fields, and I feel that this is a cultural heritage that has been passed down from the Maeda family of Kaga. The Maeda family was a truly remarkable man (laughs). In fields other than art and crafts, for example, there are vegetable producers, fishermen who are experts in the nerve-killing method and prepare magnificent yellowtail, and farmers who produce delicious rice and tea. I believe that inns are a device that allows people to experience the charm of the land as a whole, with all five senses. I believe that inns are able to gather all of this charm of the land and make use of it."

The assault style is his motto

How do you network with artists?
"Basically, I go to exhibitions and use the internet and social media to find artists that I would like to meet. Other contacts are mainly made by going to the exhibitions. If I can't reach them no matter what, I sometimes get an introduction.

Some writers don't like to be in front of people.So, we,I would like to be in a position similar to that of a translator between such authors and their customers.I think that it would be great if we could be an intermediary to communicate the value of things to people who are not good at communicating their values. For example, we ask lacquer art artists to create art panels and exhibit and sell them. We would like to convey the appeal of a wide range of things, from crafts that are close to everyday life to contemporary art, including experimental works.

By the way, the artists whose works can be seen in the museum today are all Hokuriku-based artists, including photographer Yukito Kono, Buddhist sculptor Takuji Hasegawa, contemporary artist LAKA, glass artist Rui Sasaki, lacquer artist Yoshihiko Murata, ceramic artist Toshiko Nakajima, and lacquer artist Kohei Ukai. Last year, we used the entire lobby floor to hold a discussion between artists and curators, providing a venue for the presentation of their works. I want this space to be used more. This may be developing rapidly. I'm curious to see how far it will go (laughs)."

The lobby's selling point is the "tea room" that gives off a sophisticated aura.

All guests arrive at the lobby on the fourth floor. What you'll notice right away is the art and crafts by various artists that are installed throughout the hotel. What lies beyond the front desk is wonderful. The spacious lounge is lined with large windows, and the view of the dazzling new greenery on the opposite bank along the valley jumps into your eyes. Adjacent to this lounge is the "Sabo", with its long Kaga cedar counter in a bit of shade. The whole place exudes a calm and sophisticated aura.

"Actually, when we were renovating before COVID-19, we had a vague idea in mind of a self-service lounge where guests could enjoy tea and coffee as they pleased. The idea was to reduce the number of people and increase productivity. However, even as we were thinking about it, we realized that this wasn't the right idea. It would be an automatic process without any human intervention, and we began to question what the point of doing this at an inn was.

I also thought that there is nothing to be gained by streamlining. One way of thinking is to make profits by cutting back, but even if profits are made, if neither we nor our customers are satisfied, there is no point in doing so. So, if we want to convey Japanese culture, we decided that tea, which is filled with the entire Japanese aesthetic sense, is the way to go.

So, when we renovated the lobby floor, we built a tea room. By carefully brewing selected tea by hand, customers come and feel its value. We thought that this was a point of differentiation, so we decided to focus on that. So, we decided to stop serving coffee (laughs). Our overseas guests especially like coffee, but we have them make it in their rooms."

The Sabo team trained in Tokyo

That being said, the level of sophistication of the resulting teahouse is on a whole different level.
"Our trained, specialized staff will serve over 10 types of tea, including sencha, Kaga bocha, matcha, and wakocha, as well as tea cocktails such as chashu, in special utensils that I and the artists have made together, such as Kutani ware, Suzu ware, lacquerware, and glass, to suit the type of tea."
I am a fan of sencha tea, and the flavor of the tea I tasted after three infusions was truly exceptional.

His wife, Manami Yamada, who is in charge of planning and public relations at the museum, adds:
"When new members join the tea house team, they undergo training in Tokyo, where they learn how to make tea before returning home. After that, we have them come from Tokyo each season. Each time, there is a test and we correct any areas that need improvement. There is no point in simply brewing tea. We need to raise the level of the tea to a level that is valuable.

Some employees have found out about this teahouse on Instagram and have now joined the company hoping to work there. Most of the applicants are from within the prefecture, but we also get applications from outside. It's a win-win situation for young people who want to work at a ryokan but also want to gain new skills."

The host continues.

"We hold tea parties several times a year, and we also have people try making tea using the pottery of the artists on display. The current head of the tea room team is an employee who has been there since before the tea room was established. Previously, she used to pour coffee with me, putting it into a potter. Now she is the head of the tea room, teaching tea making. She has also improved her skills, so I think she feels that the job is adding value. Even in the service industry, if there was nothing like that, young employees today would not be able to continue."

Incorporating new concepts

Hanamurasaki, built by the previous owner, was a magnificent inn built in the Sukiya style, but...
"Perhaps because I had seen too many sukiya-style buildings since I was a child, I no longer felt anything for them, and in fact I had been thinking for a long time that I wanted to fundamentally change them. However, when I studied abroad in San Francisco for about two years as a university student, I realized that there are many things that are incredibly beautiful in Japan when you look at it from the outside. At the same time, I felt that these things would not be conveyed to people today as they were.

That's when I started to think about how I could convey this message. I visited various lodgings and researched Japanese design, and eventually came across Shinichiro Ogata of SIMPLICITY."

Designer Shinichiro Ogata is known for his design and direction of architecture, interiors, products, graphics, etc. He has worked on the spatial design of his own store "Ogata Paris" and "Aesop" as well as 5-star hotel spaces.

"Mr. Ogata uses traditional techniques, but the designs he produces are very modern. That really suited me. When we were renovating our museum this time, I think most offices would start with the design, but Mr. Ogata worked with us from the concept design onwards, which was really great. I told Mr. Ogata my image, and he made many suggestions. It really is the result of careful consideration that has led to what we have today."
It has undergone a complete transformation from its previous Sukiya-style building. There are other groundbreaking ideas that Mr. Yamada came up with on the fourth floor lobby.

"Generally, inns are very closed off, so it's natural that only guests staying at the inn are allowed inside. For many years, I had been thinking about opening up the inn to people who are not staying at the inn. So I created a lounge on the lobby floor,12From 12:00 to 19:005"We have made the teahouse available for outside visitors to enjoy a cup of tea until 11:00 p.m. We also offer afternoon tea by reservation, and as summer approaches we will be offering shaved ice and other treats. We want local people to feel free to use the space as well."
Although it is not a hotel lobby, it is a truly surprising idea for a traditional inn. This is also an idea that was born because his thinking is directed towards "customer first."

The guest rooms feature a sublime Japanese modern style

In fact, starting from the lobby on the fourth floor, the guest rooms on the third to first floors have also been given a stunning makeover in a modern Japanese style. For example, the design of the bath in the modern suite on the first floor was stunning. The indoor and outdoor baths are arranged like twins, one inside and one outside, separated by a glass window. Of course, the outdoor bath is semi-open-air. What's more, it comes with the added bonus of being equipped with a sauna room and a cold bath. They are also confident in the bedding.
"It's from ISHITAYA, a futon store in Kanazawa. The down in particular is of exceptional quality, and even though it's extremely thin, it's very warm."
It's so light that you forget you're wearing it, and it keeps you warm. I also like the firm mattress, and it was extremely comfortable to sleep on.

Of course, the food is excellent both in the evening and in the morning.
In the evening, chef Nakamura Masakazu prepares an authentic kaiseki meal. Local vegetables, local sashimi, clams, seaweed, Noto beef, and specially grown Koshihikari rice... Using the bounty of Ishikawa's sea and mountains, each dish is full of flavor and will make you gasp in admiration. Even the Noto tuna sashimi is not served with soy sauce. It is served with seaweed tsukudani (simmered in soy sauce). It's a new way to eat it. Other dishes that left an impression were the steamed tiger pufferfish milt, steamed local clams on rice, and roasted Noto beef. For sake lovers, there is a wide selection of famous sake, including "Shishi no Sato" from Matsuura Sake Brewery in the area, highly recommended by the famous Nakata Hidetoshi, and "Tedorigawa" from Yoshida Sake Brewery in Hakusan. You'll find yourself drinking too much.

Every dish in the "Japanese Breakfast" has a soul. The blackthroat seaperch and firefly squid grilled on a charcoal grill are delicious, as they are dried fish, and the juicy, rich flavor of the rolled egg will wake you up. Of particular note is the deliciousness of the local Koshihikari rice. Even the four types of pickles and the nori seaweed tsukudani have been carefully selected, making it irresistible. You'll definitely want seconds of rice.

Let's go back to the young staff members mentioned at the beginning.
"Currently, more than half of our staff are in their 20s, and the average age is 32. We've been putting a lot of effort into recruiting new graduates recently, so we have applicants from all over the country. The service industry is tough, and inns in particular have that image, but we are working to create a comfortable working environment by closing on Wednesdays and Thursdays. We offer English language training, as well as training in tea ceremony, flower arrangement, and drinks made by sommeliers, so you can develop specialized knowledge and improve your skills. We would be happy if people thought that a place like this would be something they would like to work at."
In fact, President Yamada's ambition knows no bounds.
"I can't say anything specific yet, but I'm thinking about a new project that I've wanted to do for a long time. Please wait a little longer for the announcement."

Kohei Yamada

He is the sixth generation owner of Hanamurasaki, a long-established inn located in Yamanaka Onsen, Kaga City, Ishikawa Prefecture.In 2021, he took over Hanamurasaki, which was founded over 120 years ago.He became interested in street art as a teenager and went on to study at the Academy of Art University in San Francisco.He studied art and photography. After returning to Japan, he used his sensibility toThe Hanamurasaki renewal project will begin in 2022.Contemporary art and crafts are exhibited in the museum.A gallery that supports young local artists,We will set up a tea room where you can experience Japanese culture.Contemporary Japanese Cultural Salon"We create spaces and communities based on this concept.Seeing the potential of Yamanaka Onsen, where rich nature, lifestyle and manufacturing intersectWe aim to provide a one-of-a-kind stay experience.It continues to convey new charm.

flower purple

Address: 17-1-XNUMX Yamanaka Onsen Higashimachi, Kaga City, Ishikawa Prefecture

Phone: 0761-78-0077

Check-in: 14:18 (last check-in 11:XNUMX), Check-out: XNUMX:XNUMX

Composition/Written by:Toshizumi Ishibashi

Former editor-in-chief of "CREA Traveller" and "CREA”. He is currently a freelance editor and writer, working as a contributing editor in the Premium Japan editorial department.

Photo by Toshiyuki Furuya