Our destination on this tour of Kagoshima, the "Treasure Chest of the South." Located a mere two hours by high-speed ferry from Kagoshima Port, this island boasts a circumference of approximately 130km, with Kyushu's highest peak, Mount Miyanoura (1936m above sea level), towering almost in its center. While the island itself is subtropical, it boasts a vertical distribution of diverse vegetation, ranging from subtropical to subarctic. In 1993, it became Japan's first island to be designated a World Heritage Site. When it comes to Yakushima's flora, the Yakusugi cedar is undoubtedly the most prominent. After seeing the cedars for ourselves at Yakusugi Land, the island's largest forest, we visited Yakushima Bless, a shop run by the people who live off the bounty of the Yakusugi trees and the natural beauty they provide, as well as two cafes: Plant-based Cafe & Act [ne-] and Yakushima Karin.
Apart from a small area of flat land along the coast, most of the island is covered in mountains, which are covered in lush greenery.
Encountering numerous Yakusugi trees at Yakusugi Land
When you visit Yakushima, the first thing you should do is go to Jomon Cedar. Everyone might think so, but the journey to Jomon Cedar is a full-scale trekking course covering a round trip of about 22 kilometers, taking around 10 hours, and is quite difficult. Yakusugi Land is a place where you can encounter Yakusugi Cedars more easily.
By the way, Yakusugi is a cedar tree that is over 1,000 years old, and Jomonsugi is the name given to one of the largest cedar trees that has roots in the mountains at an altitude of about 1,300 meters and is thought to be between about 2,000 and 7,000 years old.Yakusugi Land also has several Yakusugi trees that are around 2,000 years old, which you can see up close.
The 30-minute, approximately 800m "Fureai no Michi" course is made up of boardwalks and stone-paved walkways, making it suitable for even small children. Even on this course, you'll come across several Yakusugi cedar trees.
Although it was sunny along the coast, it started to rain when we arrived at Yakusugi Land, which is over 1,000 meters above sea level. As the rain started, it seemed as if the trees were all taking deep breaths at the same time, and the surrounding greenery became deeper and more vibrant. There are five courses available, ranging from the well-maintained Fureai no Michi (Interaction Path), which takes 30 minutes and is about 0.8 km long, to the Tenmon no Mori (Astronomical Forest), which takes 210 minutes and is about 4.4 km long. You can choose a course that suits your age and the conditions of the day.
This time, I chose the 80-minute, approximately 2km Tsutsujigawara walk. The first section, which overlaps with the Fureai no Michi (Friendship Path), is a relatively easy walk, but as I went deeper, the path became steeper and more difficult with more ups and downs. However, this was more than compensated for by the majestic presence of the giant Yakusugi trees that appeared one after another, and the surrounding scenery that changed as I walked.
The further you go, the narrower and steeper the path becomes, so be careful with each step.
The scenery along the path is constantly changing, and you'll encounter beautiful, clear streams several times. The water is surprisingly clear.
"Thousand-Year Cedar," "Buddha Cedar," "Twin Cedar"... Not only are their quaint names impressive, but the Yakusugi cedars exude a divine presence that makes you want to bow your head before them. But it's not just the Yakusugi cedars. There are lush trees of all sizes, clear streams flowing with crystal-clear water, moss-covered rock surfaces... Stop and take several deep breaths. Life resides in everything, and the energy they emit purifies the body. Even the falling rain feels refreshing.
The roots of the Yakusugi cedars are covered in a thick layer of moss. These giant, almost divine trees give the impression that something resides within them, soothing the souls of all who visit.
I successfully completed the 80-minute Tsutsuji River course. The pleasant fatigue soon gave way to a sense of satisfaction.
Yakusugi Land is a great area where you can encounter Yakusugi trees. With the exception of the "Interaction Path" which is suitable for small children, the trails have varying elevations. It rains a lot, so it is recommended that you bring some appropriate gear, such as a raincoat and trekking shoes.
Yakushima Recreation Forest Protection Management Council
1593 Miyanoura, Yakushima-cho, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima Prefecture
Tel: 0997-42-3508
Reception hours: 8:17 to XNUMX:XNUMX
Yakuza monkeys and Yakuza deer live freely surrounded by rich nature
Besides Yakusugi Land, there are many other spots where you can experience the nature of Yakushima. One of these is Okawa Falls. The waterfall water cascading from a cliff about 90 meters high creates a truly majestic sight. On sunny days, the contrast between the blue sky, the white of the waterfall, and the surrounding greenery is beautiful. Also, on the west side of the island, on the Western Forest Road, a World Heritage Site, wild Yakushima macaques and Yakushima deer are frequently seen, sometimes roaming the road as if it were their own property.
Oko Falls has a drop of nearly 90m. You can get up close to the waterfall basin. It has also been selected as one of Japan's 100 best waterfalls.
Yakuza monkeys stare at humans from the side of the road. Feeding monkeys is strictly prohibited by ordinance, as it can cause the monkeys to become aggressive towards humans.
YAKUSHIMA BLESS
Utilizing precious Yakusugi trees to share the blessings of the island with many people
When you step inside the store, you'll see piles of small pieces of wood stacked in wooden boxes. There's also a somewhat refreshing scent. The small pieces of wood are Yakusugi cedar. Although cutting down Yakusugi cedar is now prohibited, Takedakan, the parent company of Yakushima Bless, has long been involved in the forestry business of cutting down and transporting Yakusugi cedar on Yakushima, and has had a large stock of cut Yakusugi cedar from that time. The pieces displayed in the store are made from these Yakusugi cedars.
Even when broken down into small pieces, Yakusugi cedar exudes a complex appearance that gives the impression of being 1000 years old.
If you pick up a piece and look closely, you'll see that each one is different in shape, and some even have intricate patterns on their surface. Yakusugi cedar contains more resin than regular cedar, and the more it is polished, the more lustrous it becomes, creating a complex appearance. Taking advantage of these properties of Yakusugi, "Let's Polish Yakusugi!" is a kit that includes a piece of wood chosen by the guest, sandpaper to polish the piece, and other items.
"We didn't want this to be just a souvenir. We wanted people to feel the presence of Yakushima even after their trip was over. We wanted to deliver a part of this island to everyone, and for the Yakusugi cedar to be by their side like a talisman. This product was born from that idea."
That's what Kaneda Tomohiro, representative of YAKUSHIMA BLESS, said.
Kaneda Tomohiro and his wife, store manager Sachiyo. "Takedakan," the parent store of "YAKUSHIMA BLESS," was started by Sachiyo's grandmother and continues to operate today as a store selling Yakusugi cedar furniture and other items adjacent to "YAKUSHIMA BLESS."
"I want Yakushima to remain Yakushima. In order to cherish its limited resources and preserve them for the future, I aim to combine the island's bounty with new sensibilities and create products that are unique to Yakushima, not bound by the conventional framework of 'souvenirs.' I also want Yakushima to be a place where exciting encounters are born, making people think, 'I'm glad I visited this island.'"
As Kaneda's words suggest, all of the items in YAKUSHIMA BLESS are environmentally friendly. From "Let's Polish Yakusugi!" to camellia oil steeped in Yakusugi chips, "Yakusugi Soap" made with amino acid-rich silk, and "Harmonia" bandanas handmade by artists who lived on Yakushima, each item is environmentally friendly and you can feel the warmth of the people involved.
"Yakusugi Soap" is one of the most popular items in "YAKUSHIMA BLESS." Each soap costs 3,300 yen (tax included).
The foam from Yakusugi Soap is incredibly smooth and bouncy, and you can try it out in the shop to see how it feels on your skin.
The interior of the store, which is decorated in white, is beautifully displayed with a variety of items, including Yakusugi soap, goods made with Yakusugi, and works created in collaboration with artists.
"Thank you to nature and people. The name 'bless' embodies our feelings."
The wood of Yakusugi cedars, which are over 1,000 years old, is very hard, and even a small piece of wood can be felt to be sturdy. This is the very essence of the strong will to care for the environment that underlies all YAKUSHIMA BLESS items.
YAKUSHIMA BLESS
540-61 Awa, Yakushima-cho, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima Prefecture
Tel: 0997-46-2899
Business hours: 9:00 - 17:00 (hours may change in winter)
Irregular holidays
Plant-based Cafe & Act [ne-]
A natural cafe that invites you into the forest and returns from it.
"Plant-based Cafe & Act【ne-】" is a house that stands alone, surrounded by the trees of Yakushima. "Ne" means root, and "plant-based" refers to food derived from plants. As the name suggests, the food, drinks, and sweets at this house cafe are all derived from plants.
The path that runs through the forest of Yakushima is designed to lead you directly into the store, and on the other side of the store, the path continues back into the forest.
The Buddha Bowl lunch is made with organic rice and grains cooked in a clay pot, and is topped with a generous amount of organic vegetables from Yakushima. When you put it in your mouth, the rich flavor of the vegetables spreads, and that flavor is enveloped in the rich flavor and aroma of the rice cooked in the clay pot. Homemade salt made from the island's trees and boiled in Yakushima seawater for several days, as well as carefully selected seasonings, along with the organic ingredients, further enhance the subtle flavor.
The Buddha Bowl is filled with teriyaki tofu, nuts tsukudani, shio-koji mushrooms, and seasonal vegetables from Yakushima, which change weekly. 1,500 yen (tax included)
The muffins, scones, and other sweets have a gentle, plant-based flavor that goes perfectly with the in-house roasted coffee, making for a satisfying treat that will have you wondering, "Are all of these made from plants?"
The shop offers a lovely array of plant-based sweets, including scones made with ingredients from Yakushima. All have a gentle sweetness.
The shop owners, Satoru Maruyama and his wife Mami, are always smiling. They both moved to Yakushima and set up the shop. "We were attracted to the way Yakushima is, where humans feel a part of nature. When people think of Yakushima, they tend to talk about the Yakusugi cedars, but the forest itself is not just Yakusugi cedars; it's also very rich, and we hope that as many people as possible will be able to experience that richness."
Maruyama's words are also reflected in the unique design of the building, which is designed to look as if the forest paths of Yakushima run through it. The short sides of the rectangular building serve as entrances and exits, and the path runs through the center of the store, leading out of the store and into the forest. Plant-based Cafe & Act [ne-] is both a starting point that leads into the forest, and a place where you can take a break, covering the forest path.
The space seems to blend in with the greenery of the forest. A cobblestone path runs through the store and leads out into the forest.
The interior of the store, which has a gentle wooden feel, displays works by woodworkers using wood from Yakushima and other sources, as well as organic foods, and the displays are filled with the Maruyama couple's "feelings for the forest." There is also a kids' space where guests can touch the wood, so guests with children can enjoy themselves.
Maruyama not only provides a dining space but also takes action for society, accepting training related to the trees of Yakushima and using a portion of sales for reforestation activities. It is truly a "Cafe & Act" space.
"I hope that in this slightly unusual space, visitors will be able to feel with their whole body that they are also part of the forest."
One wall of the cafe is designed with many windows and openings. A pleasant breeze blows in through the open windows. Along with the breeze, it feels as if the "connection between forest and people" that Maruyama spoke of is flowing from the forest into the cafe and into my body.
Surrounded by the two of them who are always smiling, 6-month-old Ao-chan is also always smiling.
Plant-based Cafe & Act [ne-]
2739-343 Awa, Yakushima-cho, Kumage-gun, Kagoshima Prefecture
Tel: 090-2399-8769
Business hours: 11:00-16:00 (Thursday-Saturday)
Yakushima Karin
A snack workshop filled with "Yakushima love" and focusing on Yakushima ingredients
Tankan is a type of citrus fruit characterized by its rich sweetness, moderate acidity, and juicy flesh. Kagoshima is the top producer of tankan in Japan, and in February, when the harvest season arrives, the orchards on Yakushima are filled with vibrant orange tankan fruits. Yakushima Karin makes safe and delicious snacks, focusing on sweets made with tankan.
In 2017, Suzuki Yumi took over a field where tangerines had been grown organically for over 30 years. Captivated by Yakushima and having started living on the island several years prior, Suzuki originally had a career in confectionery. Utilizing this experience, she took over the field and at the same time established Yakushima Karin, a confectionery workshop that also doubles as a store, with Suzuki as its representative.
"We wanted to make sweets using our local specialty, tankan oranges, but initially we only knew of them as a delicious fruit. We wanted to learn more about their characteristics before using them as an ingredient in sweets, and to do that, we thought it would be best to grow them ourselves. With that in mind, we decided to start farming and manufacturing/processing at the same time."
The company started with just three people, but gradually more staff members shared Suzuki's vision, and now there are 16 people involved in fruit cultivation and sweets making.
"I started this workshop because I wanted as many people as possible to experience the deliciousness of tankan oranges. To make that dream come true, I strive for sustainable agriculture, and my tankan cultivation has been certified by Kagoshima Prefecture as a special cultivation method (reduced pesticides and fertilizers). When making sweets, I value the aroma and color that come from natural ingredients as much as possible, and use ingredients from Yakushima wherever possible."
In addition to tankan, Suzuki grows a wide variety of fruits, including ponkan, lemons, guavas, bananas, and pineapples.These fruits are then turned into a variety of sweets and desserts that are sold in the shop.
They lovingly handcraft fruit butter, financiers, Basque cheesecake, and dorayaki (a type of pancake) called "Yakudora," all made with whole fruits from their own farm, as well as sweets made with the island's local specialties.
One of the most popular items is the fruit butter. The sweetness of each fruit and the rich flavor of the butter are an exquisite match. Each is 1,380 yen (tax included).
Yakushima Karin also has a cafe space. They have a wide selection of drinks, including "Whole Tangerine Juice" and "Brown Sugar Ginger Ale." The most popular are the special smoothies, which allow you to directly taste the fruit. In addition to smoothies made with plenty of fruit, such as "Tangerine Smoothie," "Guava Smoothie," and "Passion Fruit Smoothie," there is also a wide lineup of smoothies that include mango and dragon fruit. Take a sip of the "Tangerine Smoothie." The concentrated flavor of the tangerine goes down your throat comfortably, along with the moderate coolness. A gentle sweetness follows.
Enjoy the view of Mt. Mochomu towering in front of the shop while savoring the flavor to your heart's content. The Tankan Smoothie (left) and the Plum & Ponkan Smoothie (right) are 700 yen each (tax included).
The store is lined with sweets in adorable packaging.
There is also a cafe space inside the store where you can order gratin sets and fruit butter toast.
"The sweets we make may be simple, but we intend to incorporate the richness of Yakushima's nature. We are fascinated by Yakushima and by continuing to run our shop, we hope to be able to contribute even a little to the island we love."
Surrounded by the various fruits that he and his staff have harvested together in the orchard he inherited, Suzuki continues to work hard at making sweets in his workshop.
"We take our time and make sweets carefully so that one bite will make you fall in love with Yakushima," says representative Suzuki Yumi.
Yakushima Karin
鹿児島県熊毛郡屋久島町尾之間672-1
Tel: 070-8940-6721
Opening hours: 10 hours to 17 hours 30 minutes
Closed: Sundays and Mondays (irregular holidays)
When the rich nature and the wisdom of the people who live there are combined, various "treasures" are born in that land. Numerous shining "treasures" have been born in various parts of Kagoshima Prefecture. They are now attracting attention from around the world.
The journey to discover the treasures of Kagoshima will continue. To see the previous articles on "Southern Treasure Chest: A Journey Around Kagoshima," please see below.
Click here for the first Kagoshima Tea Journey
Photography by Azusa Todoroki (Bowpluskyoto)
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A trip around Kagoshima's "treasures"
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