Tour d'Argent is the very essence of French cuisine history.

Tour d'Argent in Paris is the oldest restaurant in France, with its origins traced back to an inn on Île Saint-Louis on the banks of the Seine River in 1582.

King Henry III visited the restaurant, as did the emperors of Russia and Prussia. When it was put up for auction during the French Revolution in 1789, it was purchased by Napoleon's personal chef, Le Coq.

Since then, it has passed through the hands of many people, yet it has remained at the heart of French food culture, leading the way in French cuisine.

In the 20th century, the first owner, André Terrail, became the restaurant's owner at the recommendation of Auguste Escoffier, a revolutionary figure in French cuisine. In 1984, during the tenure of the second owner, Claude Terrail, they opened "Tour d'Argent Tokyo," the only branch outside of France, inside the Hotel New Otani. Currently, the third owner, André Terrail, is in charge of both the French and Japanese branches.

Although it originated as the oldest restaurant in France, the cuisine has constantly evolved. Tour d'Argent can be said to be the very history of French cuisine.

The elegance of a grand maison reaches its pinnacle here.

Tour d'Argent Tokyo is located on the lobby floor of Hotel New Otani. Even the entrance feels otherworldly.

The dark blue entrance, symbolic of the Bourbon dynasty, leads to a dimly lit corridor, creating a sense of being drawn into a noble mansion. In stark contrast, the crimson waiting room exudes nobility, while the soft and chic dining room and elegant furnishings, reflecting the Rococo era of Louis XV, create a dreamy and extraordinary atmosphere that is truly captivating.

This restaurant space is truly unique and unparalleled in Japan.

Guests are greeted by a service staff, all dressed in frock coats. Such formality is rare, yet their demeanor is remarkably gentle, ensuring that guests feel no tension whatsoever.

This is perhaps the epitome of elegance found in a grand restaurant.

The allure of goose foie gras

A small dinner party was held at Tour d'Argent Tokyo the other day. I would like to report on what happened there.

The first drink served was Champagne "Tour d'Argent Brut Blanc de Blancs." Made from 100% Chardonnay from the Grand Cru village of Chouilly, it can only be tasted at the Paris flagship store and the Tokyo store. With its creamy bubbles, refreshing acidity, and deep, rich aroma, it was a truly elegant and wonderful start.

Here are some of the dishes I'd like to introduce.

The first appetizer, "Lobster Carpaccio with Osetra Caviar," is a luxurious carpaccio featuring semi-cooked boiled lobster topped with caviar. It's finished with a light touch of colorful diced seasonal vegetables and a hint of capers.

Next up is one of their signature dishes, "Tour d'Argent's Special Foie Gras Three Emperors." This signature dish is inspired by the story of three emperors—Russian Emperor Alexander II, Crown Prince Alexander III, and Prussian King Wilhelm I (later German Emperor)—who dined together at the same table in 1867. The foie gras, generously encased in truffles, is made from goose rather than duck, which is quite unusual.

The combination of foie gras, richer and more creamy than duck foie gras, and sensual truffles melts on the tongue, inducing ecstasy. This was paired with Château Doisy-Védrines, a Grand Cru Sauternes. As a botrytized wine, its rich sweetness, fruitiness, acidity, and minerality intertwine, creating a complex and intense flavor when it meets the foie gras in the mouth. It was a small explosion of flavor.

The "French Sole Meunière with Choisy Sauce" is pan-fried to perfection and tossed with ruby ​​grapefruit and Timut pepper. The Choisy sauce, with its blend of lettuce flavor and creaminess, offers a surprisingly innovative and delightful combination with the sole.

The head chef is one of only two MOF chefs in Japan.

Chef Renaud Augier took up the position in 2013, meaning he has been in Japan for 13 years. He is one of only two people in Japan to have received the MOF (Meilleur Ouvrier de France - Best Craftsman of the State) award. In Japanese terms, he's like a Living National Treasure.

Judging from his past statements, it seems he drew considerable inspiration from uniquely Japanese ingredients during his long stay in Japan. Although it is French cuisine, his sauces are light, and he possesses remarkable skill in bringing out the inherent flavors of the ingredients.

The final main course is Tour d'Argent's signature dish, "Roasted Young Duck Marco Polo." This signature dish, featuring roasted young ducklings served with a creamy, peppery sauce, has long fueled the longing of diners to experience this particular duck.

We paired it with a deep crimson "Domaine Le Saint-Des Caillou." This red from the Southern Rhône is rich in tannins and fruit, and quite powerful. It was an excellent match for the smoky roasted young duck.

The selection from their wine cellar, boasting approximately 1000 varieties, is truly exceptional.

Bread baked exclusively for Tour d'Argent

If I were to add one more thing, it would be that the bread served between meals is absolutely delicious. The mini baguettes and the country-style breads are all baked exclusively for Tour d'Argent. I ended up eating too much!

The final dessert was "Chocolat Manjari Mousse and Pistachio Ice Cream." Chocolat Manjari is a dark chocolate from Madagascar with a bright, raspberry-like tartness, and this elaborate mousse incorporates a compote of cherries, strawberries, and raspberries. The combination with the accompanying pistachio ice cream was a fitting grand finale.

At this dinner, I had the honor of being in the presence of the owner, Mr. Terrail. Tall and handsome, he is apparently a big sauna enthusiast, as his mother's side of the family is Finnish. In Finland, he said the best thing to do is to warm your body up thoroughly in the sauna, then drink aquavit and jump into the cold sea. He asked me, "Are there any good saunas in Tokyo?" but I couldn't think of any.

Two special events this summer

Now, two delights await you at Tour d'Argent this summer.

One of the new offerings is a gourmet experience called "Ma provence," which evokes a journey through the South of France. This will be available for both lunch and dinner from July 1st (Wed) to August 23rd (Sun), 2026.

The menu includes dishes such as "Grilled Sea Bass with Black Olive Sauce" and "Roasted Young Duck with Smoked Summer Vegetable Sauce." The former features a special sauce made with Italian "Taggiasca" black olives, beloved by gourmets worldwide. The latter is a summer version of the signature dish, served with a spiced sauce.

Another event, commemorating the 40th anniversary of Hotel New Otani Osaka's opening this year, will be "Tour d'Argent Tokyo SPECIAL 2 DAYS ~Héritage et Évolution~," held for two days only on June 13th (Sat) and 14th (Sun), 2026, at the French restaurant "SAKURA" for both lunch and dinner. Guests can also enjoy the finest wine pairings. This is a rare opportunity to see Chef Renaud Augier and his service staff gathered in Osaka.

◆ "Ma provence"

Lunch: ¥15,000, ¥25,000
Dinner: ¥25,000, ¥38,000
*All prices are for drinks only and service charge not included.

For inquiries: TEL 03-3239-3111 (direct line to Tour d'Argent Tokyo)
Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays (except when Monday is a public holiday), open for dinner only on Wednesdays.

◆40th Anniversary Celebration: "Tour d'Argent Tokyo SPECIAL 2 DAYS ~Héritage et Évolution~"

Lunch: With a glass of champagne ¥40,000 / With wine pairing ¥50,000
Dinner: With a glass of champagne ¥60,000 / With wine pairing ¥100,000
*All prices include drinks, tax, and service charge.

For inquiries: TEL 06-6949-3246 (direct line to French restaurant "SAKURA")