"The Pride of the Ryokan" is a series introducing the proprietresses and managers of ryokans (traditional Japanese inns) that are members of "The Ryokan Collection." This time, we introduce Ritsuko Miyoshi, the proprietress of "Kotohira Kadan" in Kotohira Town, Kagawa Prefecture.

A ryokan with a 400-year history

Kotohira Town in Kagawa Prefecture is home to Kotohira-gu Shrine, affectionately known as "Konpira-san." The main deities enshrined there are Omononushi-no-kami and Emperor Sutoku. Kotohira Town has a long history intertwined with the "Konpira pilgrimage," which has continued uninterrupted since the Edo period.

Kotohira Kadan is located at the foot of Mt. Zozu, where Kotohira Shrine is situated.
From the garden lounge on the third floor of the inn, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Kotohira town below and the majestic Sanuki Fuji (Mt. Iino) in the distance.

We spoke to the proprietress, Ms. Miyoshi.

"Our inn business dates back to 1627 (Kanei 4), so it's quite old. We started as a lodging house called 'Bizenya' along the main approach to Kotohira Shrine. Next year will mark our 400th anniversary. About 280 years after our founding, in 1905, the 16th generation owner, Genjiro Miyoshi, built 'Kotohira Kadan' on a hilltop as a separate villa and ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) for 'Bizenya' to commemorate the victory in the Russo-Japanese War."

Currently, the property consists of three guest room buildings and three detached cottages—Choseiden, Izumitei, and Enjukaku—which are considered symbolic of the inn, for a total of six buildings. These cottages, in particular, are known for having hosted many literary figures and artists.

"The renowned author Mori Ogai stayed at Enjukaku, Kitahara Hakushu at Izumitei, and Prince Takamatsu at Choseiden. Other notable guests included Yosano Akiko and Tekkan, Yoshii Isamu, and Ibuse Masuji. Ogai stayed at our inn for three days during his time as Surgeon General of the Army. The poem he composed at that time is: 'The pines are green, the maple leaves are red, I will never forget the person I met in the flower garden of Kotohira.'"

In Mori Ogai's novel "Konpira,"

<Dr. Tsubasa Ono, a Doctor of Literature, had just finished giving a lecture in Takamatsu City and traveled to Kotohira on January 10th, where he entered the Kotohira Flower Garden at the entrance to Mt. Zozusan.>

The story begins with a description of the inn.

Three detached buildings of cultural heritage value

The architecture of these detached buildings, built over 100 years ago, is truly magnificent. Furthermore, the numerous works of art collected by Genjiro Miyoshi add an even greater sense of grandeur.

For example, the artwork in the Hall of Longevity...

"Of the three detached buildings, the largest, the Choseiden, is a sukiya-style building incorporating tea room architecture. This detached building is the only one that Genjiro had relocated from his hometown of Tadotsu. Upon entering through the irimoya-style entrance, you'll find a hanging scroll by Kotozuka Eiichi directly ahead, and in the alcove of the shoin-style guest room, there is a triptych of 'Hanshan and Shide' by Horie Yorinao, along with many other works."

The architectural details are also magnificent.

"The bathroom ceiling is in the style of an umbrella-shaped ceiling, but it's arranged radially to serve an air conditioning function. The floor is lacquered, the toilet ceiling is a coffered ceiling, and we've deliberately left the old Japanese-style toilet as it is. The shower toilet that you actually use is in a separate room. The wavy glass windows and lighting fixtures are from the Meiji to Taisho periods, and all of them are rare features these days. These features are very charming, but the problem is that they can't be repaired if they break."

You don't often come across architecture like this. It's clear that they've carefully selected what to keep and what to update the functionality of the old materials and equipment.

"The entire building has become warped, and we've even had to use jacks to correct the distortion. You could say it's a struggle between preservation and renovation (laughs). That being said, this kind of architecture is a historical cultural asset, and its value is at the core of this inn. I feel a sense of responsibility to maintain it."

One might think that only Japanese people appreciate this kind of old Japanese architecture, but that's not the case.

"We are popular not only with people from Europe and the Americas, but especially with people from Asia, particularly Taiwan, Hong Kong, and South Korea. The biggest change is definitely the increase in inbound demand. Even in February, which used to be a slow season, we are now able to maintain high occupancy rates, especially around the Lunar New Year. In April, when the cherry blossoms are in bloom, the proportion of overseas customers reaches 40%, and we are feeling the impact of inbound tourism on the stability of our occupancy rate throughout the year. Many people see our posts on Instagram and other social media and make reservations directly online."

The widespread use of online booking is bringing about new forms of hospitality. Soaking in a hot spring in the open-air bath in your own room while gazing at the historic gardens and the townscape of Kotohira is a major highlight of any trip.

"Each of our 13 guest rooms with open-air baths has its own unique character. Recently, our international guests, especially from Asia, are very experienced travelers and check the photos on our website in detail beforehand, making reservations with a clear image of their preferred room layout in mind."

That's why we take great care to understand your requests in advance and guide you to the most suitable room so that we can deliver an experience that exceeds your expectations."

From clinical laboratory technician to bride of a traditional Japanese inn owner.

Kotohira Kadan has its origins in "Bizenya," which was founded on Omotesando in 1627, and will celebrate its 400th anniversary next year. The proprietress came to this inn after getting married.

"I was born in Obihiro, Hokkaido, and after graduating from a local high school, I studied for three years at a medical vocational school in Tokyo. After graduation, I worked as a clinical laboratory technician and a pathology cytotechnologist at Juntendo University Hospital in Ochanomizu. As a cytotechnologist, my job was to examine human cells under a microscope to determine whether or not they were malignant tumors."

I met my husband when we were students. He was the eldest son of a ryokan (Japanese inn) owner, so we got married when I was 29 and moved here. It's been exactly 42 years since then. When we first arrived, I participated in academic conferences and received invitations from hospitals and testing centers in the prefecture, but it was difficult to balance that with running the ryokan, so I decided to dedicate myself to the ryokan's work."

I wonder if she was able to easily adapt to working at the inn.

"I came to the family with the intention of working at the inn. I was young and had no experience, so I jumped in without thinking it would be particularly difficult. My husband's parents were at 'Bizenya,' and his grandmother was at 'Kotohira Kadan.' So, rather than training to become a proprietress, I was doing behind-the-scenes administrative work."

Since I knew absolutely nothing about the inn business, it was probably good that I was able to view it from the customer's perspective. I observed my surroundings carefully and thought about what the right thing to do was in each situation. My husband's grandmother was quite elderly, and since I was working behind the scenes, I wasn't really instructed much. The only thing she taught me was, "Check for dust by running your finger along the frame of the shoji screen" (laughs).

A new turning point in a historic inn

Over the long years since its founding, the company has faced difficult times due to changing times.

"Because Kotohira Kadan has been deeply rooted in the community, we felt a strong desire to continue protecting its rich history and passing it on to the future."Amidst these circumstances, I was fortunate enough to find a suitable partner, and in 2007, I began a new chapter as a member of the Hotel New Awaji Group.Mr. Kinoshita, the president of the group, has been incredibly warm and supportive of us since the beginning. Above all, I am deeply grateful that he allowed us to keep the name "Kotohira Kadan" as it was.

Taking this as an opportunity, we decided to renovate the inn while cherishing its history and traditions above all else, transforming it into a lodging that meets the needs of the times. Along with this new beginning, I have also taken on the main stage of inn management as the proprietress."

What changed in the 2008 grand renovation?

"While preserving the unique qualities that have made Kotohira Kadan special, we have renovated the store to ensure our customers have a comfortable experience."First, regarding the three detached cottages, which are the symbol of the inn, their historical architecture and charm have been preserved, while they have been transformed into comfortable rooms that suit modern times.In addition, we have completely renovated the guest rooms, taking advantage of our proud strolling garden, and have also created a guest lounge in part of it, offering panoramic views of the Japanese garden, the townscape of Kotohira, and even the distant Asan Mountains.

Regarding the hot springs, we have taken advantage of our location at the foot of Mount Kotohira to create a new open-air bath where you can feel close to the lush greenery of the mountain. After enjoying the magnificent view that stretches all the way to Mount Sanuki Fuji from here, you can receive authentic Thai massage and treatments in the spa building located in the garden.We hope you can refresh your mind and body with the comforting feeling after your bath and a superb massage, and enjoy a relaxing and luxurious evening during your trip."

Updating the dining experience

"In terms of service, the menu has changed with the renewal. Previously, we served a large number of dishes at the beginning, like a banquet, but now we've changed to a style where we serve carefully selected dishes one by one, ensuring that hot dishes are served hot and cold dishes are served cold, so that you can enjoy them at their most delicious moment."

The main stars of the menu were the Sanuki beef, Cochin chickens, and Yumebuta pork, all carefully raised in the Sanuki Plain and known as the "Three Livestock of Sanuki" at the time. Based on these, we have prepared a course menu that generously incorporates locally sourced ingredients, such as fresh seafood from the naturally abundant Seto Inland Sea, and fresh local vegetables and rice.

As a result, we began to explain the dishes to our customers more carefully, and the staff naturally became more enthusiastic about providing excellent service. The biggest change, above all, was the shift in everyone's mindset."

As a result, customer satisfaction has improved, and naturally, online reviews have also risen steadily. They are now able to attract young, motivated talent, which was previously difficult, and the quality of service has improved dramatically. At dinner in the main dining room "Keyaki," the wild vegetable hot pot with olive beef was particularly memorable. Olive beef is tender and has a clean taste despite having little marbling. The meat is very sweet. The local Sanuki rice is also sweet and very delicious.

"Sanuki rice is Koshihikari. If you go even deeper into the mountains, the same Sanuki rice becomes sweeter. We have a blend of rice from the mountains and rice from the plains."

For people from the Kanto region, the red miso soup made with dried sardine broth was also a comforting and soothing experience.

What are we trying to do in terms of regional collaboration?

"Our location is only possible because of Kotohira Shrine. We are right at its foot."

The deity enshrined at Kotohira Shrine, Omononushi-no-kami, is considered the "guardian deity of the sea," attracting annual visits from shipping company employees. He is also widely worshipped as a god of business prosperity and omnipotence. It's a popular power spot for general tourists as well. It's definitely worth climbing the 785 steps to the main shrine. The air at the top feels completely different.

From the back road of our inn, you can take a mountain path and go directly to the former Konpira Grand Theater, Kanemaru-za, where the "Shikoku Konpira Kabuki Grand Performance" is held. It gets especially busy during this period. In addition, our inn also serves as a hub for those heading to the Iya Valley in Tokushima Prefecture, or to Naoshima and Shodoshima, which are bustling with activity during the Setouchi Triennale.

What about collaboration with local culture?

"I am active as a member of the Konpira Tourism and Community Development Association."

Kotohira Town has developed as a center of local culture, commerce, and information, alongside the popular Konpira pilgrimage since the Edo period. It is blessed with a variety of cultural attractions, including famous places of interest, historical sites, traditional performing arts such as Kabuki, crafts, art museums, and museums, as well as a rich natural environment including waterfronts. Our activities aim to make the entire town feel like a museum, allowing people to discover, enjoy, and appreciate its charms, including its culture, nature, food, and history.

In terms of the role that a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn) plays in promoting local culture, I feel that our collaboration with the local community is still insufficient. Incidentally, we have original Daruma dolls made by a traditional wood carving shop in Omotesando displayed throughout the inn.

Going forward, I hope to further strengthen our collaboration with the Konpira Tourism and Community Development Association, while working as a member to realize the experiential programs they have proposed. As a ryokan (traditional Japanese inn), I would like to become more deeply rooted in the community and play an even greater role as a base for disseminating the local culture and charm."

Ritsuko Miyoshi

Born in Obihiro, Hokkaido. After graduating from a local high school, she studied for three years at a medical vocational school in Tokyo. She worked as a clinical laboratory technician specializing in cytology screeners at Juntendo University Hospital. She met the successor to "Kotohira Kadan" and married him at the age of 29. 42 years have passed since then. She began her full-fledged role as proprietress in 2008.

Composition/Written by:Toshizumi Ishibashi
Toshizumi Ishibashi

Former editor-in-chief of ``Claire Traveler'' and ``Claire.'' He is currently a freelance editor and writer, working as a contributing editor in the Premium Japan editorial department.

Photo by Toshiyuki Furuya