The ``World's 50 Best Restaurants'' is known as the ``Academy Awards of Food.'' Kyoto's Italian restaurant Cenci ranked 50rd in Asia's 43 Best Restaurants. We spoke to Ken Sakamoto, the owner and chef of the restaurant, which has rapidly increased its reputation from 91st place last year and made its name known both domestically and internationally.

First restaurant in Kyoto to be selected as one of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants

Kyoto is a gourmet city where restaurants of all genres compete with each other. Cenci is the only restaurant from this city that was selected as one of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants. The owner and chef, Ken Sakamoto, originally had no connection to cooking, and his aim was to work in the apparel industry when he was a student. During his frequent visits to London, he frequented a second-hand clothing store run by Italians, which led to him making more Italian friends, and experiencing the deliciousness of the food they prepared, which led him to pursue this path.

“Although the ingredients we use, such as Parmigiano and pancetta, are simple, they are all delicious.I was fascinated by how interesting it was that you could make something so delicious just by using delicious ingredients.”

After graduating from university, he first worked at an Italian restaurant where Chef Yasuhiro Sasashima, who later founded Il Ghiottone, worked, in charge of service. He then moved to Il Ghiottone, where he served as head chef for over 10 years. During his time at Il Ghiottone, he not only worked at a store, but also worked at events that attracted thousands of customers, and worked as a New Year's waiter at a department store.

“It was a really great learning experience. Having gained so much experience, I was able to decide what I wanted to do, which was to welcome customers politely and cook for them, and to build more connections with local producers.” I started to want to cook food that brings out the best in me.”

At that time, the avant-garde cuisine that began at El Bulli was attracting attention all over the world.

“At a restaurant like ElBulli, which you only go to once a year, or even once in your life, I think a surprising presentation brings joy. My goal is to create a store that continues to amaze the people who frequent it.I want to create a store that changes every time they visit, and that they find interesting.

Thorough pursuit of “local” becomes “global”

That's why Chef Sakamoto says the most important thing is to be local.

``First of all, we need to create consumption of local ingredients, and local people think that they are delicious.It would be nice to receive acclaim from inbound tourists and overseas, but that will only happen once we have properly established the value of our existence as a local restaurant. Ultimately, it is something that will eventually become global.For example, Japanese cuisine was not created with the world in mind from the beginning, but rather continued to be refined domestically for 50 or 100 years. Our techniques and taste have been recognized around the world. That's why I think it's important for us to grow strong roots as a local restaurant and gain value."

Local and global are not contradictory, but are an extension of one. With that in mind, I lived in Kyoto for eight years. Kyoto's first ranking in Asia's 50 Best Restaurants this time can be said to be the fruit of that determination.

``I had a desire to aim for the world, but I didn't want to feel weak even after receiving various evaluations.I feel that what I've believed in so far is finally beginning to bloom.'' ”

It all starts with one ingredient. A dish that exceeds expectations

Cenci's menu only lists the ingredients used. The style has not changed since it opened.

``It might be easier to understand what kind of food it is if there were explanations about the cooking method and sauces, but then it seemed like everything was shown before the curtain even opened, which I thought was kind of boring.''

The first thing guests who visit here experience is the joy of imagination.

``When customers see this menu, they wait excitedly while talking, asking, ``What kind of dish will I make with these ingredients?'' and ``What's next?'' We want them to enjoy it as a communication tool even before they eat. ”

What comes out is a variety of dishes that exceed the guests' imaginations. For example, in Japanese cuisine, sweetfish is a classic early summer dish that is served salt-grilled, but in Chef Sakamoto's hands, he fries it with all the fine bones intact. The meat is filled with a paste made from young sweetfish, which has just the right amount of bitterness to give you the umami flavor that only ayu can have. The fragrant Genovese is made by mixing the buds of trees that are grown longer than normal to give the pasta its aroma with paste and chicken stock. A dish that defies the guests' expectations in a good way appears in front of them. However, the taste is not difficult at all.

``I think it's very important to have a taste that is easy to understand.Rather than increasing the number of elements and creating a complex and incomprehensible taste, you can feel the three elements clearly and think that it is delicious.That is an important technique for a chef. I think"

Food connects the various charms of Kyoto

Chef Sakamoto was born and raised in Kyoto. Therefore, he says that the local charm becomes the identity of his cuisine.

``I grew up in a culture of dashi (dashi) and a lifestyle with lots of fields nearby.So even if you don't have Kyoto vegetables, you can have local farmers grow the vegetables you want and get the flavor you want.'' I am able to express my identity by focusing on the texture of the ingredients.I always believe that what I project onto my plate should be what people who were born and raised here would find delicious. I am asking this question in my heart.”

The appeal of being in Kyoto is not just the food. The store, located in a quiet area overlooking Heian Shrine, is a renovated Japanese house that was built about 100 years ago. Furthermore, many of the dishes, cutlery, and linens used at Cenci are made by Kyoto artists.

``In such a small town, there are many craftsmen and artists who work in pottery, woodwork, textiles, and other crafts.One day, at this table, there was a producer of the vegetables we use today, and at the table next to him was a producer of the vegetables we use today. Before you know it, they are interacting with each other, and people from different worlds are connecting through Cenchi's food.The best part of the restaurant is that Cenchi is the hub for these connections. I hope it becomes.”

What does Chenchi think restaurants should be like in the future? A place that brings people together and connects tastes. In the second part, we will deliver the thoughts of Chef Sakamoto, who knows the world and looks to the future.