Michelin Guide Tokyo feels like a big change2024

There are many food evaluation standards around the world, but the one with the oldest history and the name that everyone knows is, of course, Michelin. "Japan Michelin Tire", the Japanese subsidiary of the giant global company,12Month5``Michelin Guide Tokyo2024” was announced. An announcement ceremony was held at the New National Museum of Art in Tokyo, and immediately after, the results were revealed on the official website and in-house app.

The results have already been published in many media, so please take a look. Here, I would like to share my thoughts on how we, as consumers, should think about these results, including many of my personal opinions.

At the end of the article, we introduce [Michelin Tokyo 2024 XNUMX star to XNUMX star complete list], so please use it as a reference.

The number of listed stores increases all at once.500Over the eaves! why?

At the Tokyo New National Museum, there is a venue for the award ceremony.2Members of the media were gathered in advance of the meeting. The results, changes, and Michelin's intentions will be explained to them before the chefs and restaurant staff. In the quiet venue, after the participants had taken their seats, a thick release was handed out, and we were surprised by the words written on the cover. "3A new three-star store was born for the first time in years, and the number of listings was the highest ever.504"It became an eave." In last year's guide, the number of listed stores was422Eaves. What on earth happened?

The reason for this is the newly established "Selected Restaurant" slot. Here194A restaurant called Ken was selected and was actually featured in the Michelin Guide Tokyo.2024” is also published. However, at first, I felt that this definition was ``soft'' in my personal opinion. It doesn't feel right to be included in the Bib Gourmand category, which guarantees value beyond price, and it's not at the level of being awarded a star. However, for the inspectors (judges), these are the famous restaurants that they think they should definitely introduce.194In fact, the number of Michelin-starred restaurants has actually decreased significantly compared to last year. The number of three-star stores is the same as last year.12However, the two-star store is6fewer houses33The one-star store is11fewer houses138Eaves. As for Bib Gourmand95fewer houses127It was an eave.

Michelin is also exploring ways to adapt to the diversifying restaurant industry

If you follow the news articles after the publication, you'll notice the words ``highest number of houses ever published.'' Indeed, this time's ``Michelin Guide Tokyo''2024Everyone was enthusiastic about the announcement of the results. This is because the theme of this year's event advocated by Michelin is "reunion and restart," and the event was held as normal after a long period of time hampered by the global spread of the new virus, so the excitement was considerable. Ta.

However, during this time, the global food and beverage industry was not just waiting for time. In fact, it's the opposite. Anyway, things have changed drastically. As a result of having the freedom to work remotely, people are eating more meals at home or going out to local restaurants. Traditional values ​​have changed, and issues such as the global environment and sustainability have changed."the meaning to exist"A person who has come to support chefs who bring out the best. Although this may have little to do with the coronavirus pandemic, the unprecedented depreciation of the yen has led to an explosive increase in inbound tourists, and many restaurants are likely forced to change their customer service.4There are many chefs and cooks who have made major changes in their direction by reconsidering themselves over the past year.

In line with the rapidly expanding new sense of values, the number and style of restaurants are now all over the place. Moreover, Tokyo is the gourmet city with the most restaurants in the world. It would be too harsh for the judges to evaluate these stores in the same way as before. As a result, the criteria for awarding stars should have been reconsidered, and the ``Selected Restaurant'' category may have been necessary to ensure that even though a restaurant lost a star, it did not simply mean that the value of the restaurant had been lost. Infer. With this frame, Bib Gourmand is easier to understand.3This may have led to the fact that the ramen shop of Kenno was ranked in the ranking.

Thorough Michelin Guide review system

On a personal note, over the past few years I have been working on the ``World's Best Restaurants'' list.50(Hereinafter referred to as “World50I had many opportunities to cover food awards held in local areas. This time, I had the opportunity to report on the Michelin Guide, a long-established food competition, with a fresh feeling, but I found that the guide is more special, rigorous, and attractive than I imagined.

All of the judges, known as ``inspectors,'' are Michelin employees, and the identity of the judges is never disclosed. The inspectors, who operate anonymously, have undergone screening training conducted in France and are said to use the same standards for evaluations. For example, “World50”, where voters appointed by the regional judging committee chairperson vote for their favorite restaurants with their bento boxes, and foodies, such as Japan's famous “Tabelog”, go out and buy their own food, even if they are not appointed. Opinions are expressed, and the overall evaluation determines the evaluation. In short, Michelin is already an original when it comes to ``reviewing'' its work.

The Michelin evaluation standards are also revealed in the official guide, and are: (1) quality of ingredients, (2) high level of cooking technique, (3) perfection of seasoning, (4) originality, and (5) consistently consistent overall consistency of the dish. I think it's surprising that everything boils down to "cooking." Nowadays, unless it's a very special dish, I think most of the food prepared by professional chefs is delicious, and the experience of the eater often doesn't determine the quality of the food. As a result, the world50'' and ``Tabelog,'' I feel that when it comes to food, personal subjectivity matters, and the ratings are influenced by the service, the comfort of the restaurant, the character of the chef, and his or her ability to communicate with the world. How one views this difference is up to the individual, but I believe that the Michelin Guide, which has been consistently dealing with food for a long time, truly discusses the competition on the plate.

Therefore, as mentioned above, the food and beverage industry is currently undergoing changes, and it will be no mean feat to adjust to everything. about19Michelin inspectors thoroughly inspect Tokyo's 10,000 restaurants and visit them many times if necessary. These days, an increasing number of chefs value ``something more than deliciousness,'' and it would be extremely costly, time-consuming, and difficult to judge dishes fairly with this in mind.

Tokyo's restaurant scene continues to move forward

I had the above thoughts in mind as I conducted the interview, but there was one thing that really left an impression on me. It's the strange sense of tension that the chefs feel as they wait for the announcement. I have long felt that the word ``Michelin'' has a unique power for those involved in the culinary arts. Many times I've seen young chefs' cheeks tighten when they talk about Michelin. When he says, ``I'll catch it someday,'' I've seen his gaze sharpen many times.

Restaurants are always evaluated by someone, whether it's a professional reviewer or a regular customer. No matter how good the food you make, if you don't have customers, you can't run a business. In order to convey that we have great food here, we can't just say things like, ``People who understand it will understand it.'' After all, there are hundreds of thousands of competitors, and customers now come from all over the world. In Tokyo's restaurant scene, which is in a period of transition, Michelin accolades are a must-see. However, I think there is a point in saying that you shouldn't be a chef who desperately strives to achieve just that.

In this world where there are no correct answers, what standard do we walk in?

With the announcement of this selection, Michelin Guide Tokyo has revealed Tokyo's turbulent restaurant scene, a statement of its determination to return to its roots, and a generous tribute to the many restaurants that are emerging like sparkling bubbles. ``Sparkling Bubbles'' was selected as a ``Selected Restaurant,'' neither a Bib Gourmand nor a star.194It's an eaves. I am moved by the existence of chefs who could not be given a category based on the current evaluation criteria, but who were listed because the inspector was so eager to introduce them.

Just as there is no right answer to beauty, there is no definition for deliciousness or a "good restaurant." Even so, the way he strives to reach for the stars is reminiscent of a warrior. When you think you have improved, but you lose a star or get no results, how do you cope with the absurdity of being graded and evaluated without your knowledge? However, I think the important thing is not to lose yourself.

This time, “Aozora/” received three stars for the first time.HARUTAKA(Sushi)'' Aozora Takahashi left the following words on stage.

"Usually, I've done this without worrying about any kind of evaluation. That's because I want to keep myself from swaying. But for today, I just want to be happy."

I feel like Michelin's answer lies in these words.

Keep an eye on the Michelin Guide as it aims for the next stage

1900The Michelin Guide was launched in 2016. Asia's first Tokyo edition2007It was announced in 2017, and now17This is the third time. Michelin is constantly evolving. Next year, a new hotel rating called ``Michelin Key'' will be announced, and furthermore, the digital environment will be significantly strengthened.2024Years4Month9``Michelin Guide Kyoto/Osaka'' scheduled to be held on2024'' was announced online. In order to support Japan's food and beverage industry, which has been freed from the curse of the coronavirus pandemic, the gourmet guide giant is steadily moving forward, even as it explores its options. As a foodie, there is no other guidebook as exciting as this one. In bookstores, on the internet, and on apps. We hope you will take a look and feel the power of the food and beverage industry.

[Michelin Tokyo 2024 XNUMX star to XNUMX star complete list results announcement]

[Three stars/Excellent cuisine worth traveling for/All12eaves, including new1eaves】

New: Aozora (Sushi)

Quintessence (French cuisine), Makimura (Japanese cuisine), Kagurazaka Ishikawa (Japanese cuisine), Torahaku (Japanese cuisine), L'Osier (French cuisine), Ryugin (Japanese cuisine), Azabu Kadowaki (Japanese cuisine), Kanda ( (Japanese cuisine), Chazenka (Chinese cuisine), L'Effervéçons (French cuisine), Joel Robuchon (French cuisine)

[Two stars/Great food worth the detour/All33eaves, including new1eaves】

New: Mass (Innovative)

Jingumae Higuchi (Japanese cuisine), Den (Japanese cuisine), Hommage (French cuisine), Nabeno-ism (French cuisine), Asahina Gastronome (French cuisine), Esquith (French cuisine), Ginza Koju (Japanese cuisine), Ginza Shinohara (Japanese cuisine), Ginza Fukuki (Japanese cuisine), Kutan (Japanese cuisine) ), Kobikicho Tomoki (sushi), Sushi Kanesaka (sushi), Sushi Yotake (sushi), Zuliola (Spanish cuisine), Tempura Kondo (tempura), Beige Alain Ducasse (French cuisine), Kioicho Fukudaya ( (Japanese cuisine), Sezan (French cuisine), Akasaka Kikunoi (Japanese cuisine), Usuki Fugu Yamadaya (Fugu), Crony (French cuisine), Sukiyabashi Jiro Roppongi store (Sushi), Haruyama (Japanese cuisine), Seikusakubo (Japanese cuisine), Tempura Ginya (tempura), Narisawa (innovative), Pierre Gagnaire (French cuisine), Prisma (Italian cuisine), Florillege (French cuisine), Myojaku (Japanese cuisine), Lew's (French cuisine), La Table de Joel Robuchon (French cuisine)

[1 star/Excellent food worth visiting if you're nearby/All138eaves, including new16eaves】

New: Fukuoka (Chinese cuisine), Hiroo Ishizaka (Sushi), Monolith (French cuisine), Ichirin (Japanese cuisine), Ubuka (crab cuisine), Retail (French cuisine), Il Ristorante Nico Romito (Italian cuisine) ), Ginza Kitagawa (Japanese cuisine), Ginza Lequin (French cuisine), Toi Visage (French cuisine), Rokugan (Japanese cuisine), Minato-style Ryori Kouhei (Chinese cuisine), Nishiazabu Noguchi (Japanese cuisine), Miyasaka ( Japanese cuisine), Métis Roppongi (French cuisine), Kabi (Innovative)

Torishiki (yakitori), Abyss (French cuisine), Odeko (French cuisine), Samplicité (French cuisine), Shigeyuki (Japanese cuisine), Aged Sushi Man (sushi), Cynthia (French cuisine), Tamasho (soba), Ten Tempura Uchitsu (Tempura), Tempura Motoyoshi (Tempura), Nanakusa (Japanese cuisine), Bottega (Italian cuisine), Lature (French cuisine), Recte (French cuisine), Lelan (French cuisine), Tatsuya Arakicho (Japanese cuisine) , Kaiseki Komuro (Japanese Cuisine), Gunao Ni (Japanese Cuisine), Kururikimon Onozawa (Japanese Cuisine), Seika Kobayashi (Japanese Cuisine), Tanimoto (Japanese Cuisine), Hato (Sushi), Fushikino (Japanese cuisine), Floraison (French cuisine), Yakitori Omino (yakitori), Sushidokoro Kiraku (sushi), Oku (sushi), Aroma Fresca (Italian cuisine), Edomae Shinsaku (tempura), Oniku Hanayagi (beef) Cuisine), Goryokatsushi (Japanese cuisine), Kyobashi Tempura Fukamachi (Tempura), Ginza Okuda (Japanese cuisine), Ginza Kitafuku (crab cuisine), Ginza Shisui (Japanese cuisine), Ginza Toyota (Japanese cuisine), Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura Tokyo (Italian cuisine), Shigematsu (Japanese cuisine), Shunkeian Aragaki (Tempura), Kuizen Abe (Japanese cuisine), Sushi Ichijo (Sushi), Sushi Kuwano (Sushi), Sushi Keita (Sushi) ), Sushi Kojima (sushi), Sushi Hashimoto (sushi), Sushi Murayama (sushi), Seiju (tempura), Takagaki no Sushi (sushi), Tempura Yaguchi (tempura), Dominique Boucher (French cuisine), Nihonbashi Soba Noji (tempura), Noru (modern cuisine), Faro (Italian cuisine), Wood-grilled Ginza Onodera (French cuisine), Yuan Yamori (soba), Raffinage (French cuisine), La Paix ( French cuisine), Ren 347 (Japanese cuisine), Estelle (French cuisine), Est (French cuisine), Chinese restaurant Kohakugu (Chinese cuisine), Tour d'Argent Tokyo (French cuisine), Toraguro (Japanese cuisine), Nu Tokyo (French cuisine), Prunier (French cuisine), L'Argent (French cuisine), Les Saisons (French cuisine), Ishibashi (eel), Akanesaka Onuma (Japanese cuisine), Akiyama (Japanese cuisine), Azabu Juban Fukuda (Japanese cuisine), Azabu Kazuyoshi (Japanese cuisine), Amarantos (French cuisine), Alsimist (French cuisine), Jika (Chinese cuisine), Ippei Hanten (Chinese cuisine), Edition Kouji Shimomura (French cuisine), Edomae sushi Ei (Sushi), Okamoto (Japanese Cuisine), Onarimon Haru (Japanese Cuisine), Goryori Tsuji (Japanese Cuisine), Kaiseki Tsujidome (Japanese Cuisine), Kasumicho Yamagami (Japanese Cuisine), Jizo Sushi (Sushi) , Private Kitchen Isamu (Chinese Cuisine), Chinois (Chinese Cuisine), Jushu (Japanese Cuisine), Kami (Beef Cuisine), Series (Chinese Cuisine), Shinbashi Sasada (Japanese Cuisine), Sushi Masashi (Sushi), Sushi Matsuura (Sushi), Sushiya Shota (Sushi), Sushi Ryujiro (Sushi), Charcoal Grilled Kappo Shirasaka (Japanese Cuisine), Souka (Japanese Cuisine), Daigo (Shojin Cuisine), Chinese Restaurant Furika (Chinese Cuisine), Te Noshima (Japanese cuisine), Tempura Maehira (tempura), Ten Yokota (tempura), Toki (modern cuisine), Tsune (Japanese cuisine), Nishiazabu Otake (Japanese cuisine), Nishiazabu Sushi Makoto (sushi), Nishiazabu Taku (Sushi), Nemo (French cuisine), Shin Nogizaka (Eel), Hakuun (Japanese cuisine), Principio (Italian cuisine), La Clairiere (French cuisine), L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon (French cuisine), Le Sputnik ( (French cuisine), Robe (French cuisine), Buntokuyama (Japanese cuisine), Udatsu Sushi (Sushi), Ensui (Japanese cuisine), Craftal (French cuisine), Tempura Miyashiro (Tempura), Tenga (Japanese cuisine) , Yakumo Uezu (Japanese cuisine)

The following is omitted here. Details are officialHPTo

[Bib Gourmand / Dishes that give you more satisfaction than the price / All127eaves, including new9eaves】

[Selected Restaurants/Dishes that did not receive a star or Bib Gourmand, but the inspectors would like to introduce/All194eaves, including new142eaves】

[Michelin Green Star/Stores that continue to actively promote sustainable gastronomy/All11eaves, including new1eaves】