The Wakasa region of Fukui Prefecture is a land rich in seafood, so much so that it was called "Mikkekuni" (Land of Food) from ancient times to the Heian period, when seafood was presented to the Imperial Court. This tradition continues to this day, and there are many restaurants in the Wakasa region that gourmets visit from far and wide.

In Obama, Wakasa, there is a lodging that is gaining attention for its unique style and delicious food called "Wakasa Kajitsu." I visited "Wakasa Kajitsu" on a winter day to enjoy a course that included "Wakasa Fugu," a brand fish, and "Echizen Crab," a winter specialty of Fukui.

A long-established inn renovated into a hotel

The Anou district of Obama City, Fukui Prefecture, is a historic village that once flourished as a boat lodge for Kitamae ships. Facing a quiet cove in Wakasa Bay, this tranquil village is lined with numerous inns catering to beachgoers. In recent years, a number of inns have appeared that overturn the traditional image of inns, modernizing their spaces while still serving dishes made with plenty of fish from the Sea of ​​Japan and maintaining the family-style hospitality, and this has led to an increase in the number of guests from the younger generation.

The symbol of this area is Wakasa Kabi. A long-established inn that represents the Ana area has been renovated into a hotel and will open in August 2023. The 8 guest rooms are located in three different buildings, the main building, the annex, and the annex, and each room has a different style and incorporates modern designs throughout.

Lose track of time as you gaze upon the beautiful Rias coastline from your room

All three rooms in the "Annex" are equivalent to suites, and are luxuriously designed with one room per floor. From the "Grand Suite" on the fourth floor, which was formerly used as the inn's large public bath, you can enjoy a panoramic view of Wakasa Bay and the mountains surrounding the bay.

Looking at the intricate mountain ranges that are unique to the Rias coast and the gentle, rippling waters, it's easy to lose track of time. There is also a sunken kotatsu-like step in one part of the floor, which serves as a sofa space. I heard that the space is the same as the bathtub in the large communal bath. When you sink into the sofa, you really feel like you're gazing at the ocean while soaking in a bathtub.

Wakasa fugu, which is raised in the cold waters of Wakasa Bay, has a taste comparable to that of wild tiger fugu.

Breakfast and dinner are served at the Dining Zen in the main building. The spacious space, with its floors and ceilings made of high-quality domestic wood, and the sense of freedom that connects you to the beach and the sea as soon as you step outside, make mealtime even more enjoyable.

In winter, fugu is the most popular food. Wakasa has a brand of fugu called "Wakasa fugu". Wakasa Bay is known as the northernmost tiger fugu farming area in Japan, and fugu raised in the cold winter waters is said to taste as good as wild fugu.

Fukui Prefecture has registered this farmed fugu as a regional collective trademark, and has started a certification system for inns that serve "Wakasa fugu" as "Wakasa fugu inns." The Ana region originally had a history of inns farming tiger fugu together to create a local specialty, and it is the region that led the birth of "Wakasa fugu." The "Wakasa fugu" you can enjoy in the Ana region is exceptional.

A superb course is created, where you can enjoy both "Wakasa Fugu" and "Echizen Crab"

Also, when it comes to seafood in Fukui in winter, you can't miss the Echizen crab. With the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Tsuruga, many tourists from Tokyo are coming to Fukui in search of Echizen crab. In order to meet this demand, starting from the winter of 2024, Wakasa Kabi will be offering a new "seasonal special kaiseki plan where you can enjoy pufferfish and crab at the same time."

This course includes thin slices of Wakasa fugu, tetchiri hotpot, and Echizen crab sashimi, grilled, and steamed, making it an extremely luxurious experience to enjoy two of Fukui's winter delicacies. It is great that two people will be served one Wakasa fugu and 2g of Echizen crab.

The thinly sliced ​​"Wakasa Fugu" has a firm texture. As you savor the texture, the light yet profound flavor gradually spreads. Also, the rich flavor of the "Echizen Crab" is condensed with umami, and the way it changes slightly depending on the cooking method leaves a vivid memory.

This "seasonal special banquet plan to enjoy fugu and crab at the same time" will be available until March 2025, 3. In addition, from spring to autumn, a plan will be available to enjoy "Wakasa Guji", a brand fish unique to Wakasa.

The narrow and winding alleys create a unique atmosphere

Wakasa Kabi consists of five buildings: the main building, annex, and annex that house the guest rooms, the storehouse that functions as the front desk, and the only newly built building, Uchitomi. The reason the buildings are divided into so many small buildings is that in this area, where the hospitality industry is thriving, many accommodations have added annexes, banquet halls, large baths, and other facilities to their guest rooms. The buildings, built in a complicated pattern along narrow alleys, now exude a unique atmosphere.

Discover the different faces of the Wakasa Sea in the two Uchitomi baths

"Uchitomi" is a newly built building exclusively for outdoor baths. After receiving the key at the front desk and going up to the second floor of the modern building, you pass through the washing area and an impressive view awaits you.

It is a long, narrow square space with walls on both sides, with only the very back opening facing the sea. The narrow base of the long, narrow rectangular prism acts as a frame, allowing you to view the cut-out scenery from the other side. Furthermore, the light coming in from outside is reflected on the water's surface, which then flickers inside the bathroom, creating a fantastical space. You are seized by a mysterious sensation, as if you are enveloped in something and connected to the sea. There, time flows in an extraordinary way, different from that of a typical infinity bath. The first floor is a semi-open-air bath style bathroom. Men and women alternate between the first and second floors in the morning and evening, so if possible, it's a good idea to enjoy both baths.

Wakasa Kabi was established when inns operating in the Ana area pooled their capital.

We spoke with Hokuto Mikoshiba, CEO of Machizukuri Obama Co., Ltd., the company that operates Wakasa Kabi.

"In the Ana region, traditional inns are undergoing renovation, while a long-established inn that represented the area closed down in 2020. Wakasa Kabi was built in its place."

"The biggest feature is that when Wakasa Kabi was launched, 15 inns that were originally located in the Ano area pooled their capital. Wakasa Kabi also sets its prices higher than other inns, ensuring that it has a niche for customers. In this way, rather than competing with each other, the goal is for all the inns to join forces and raise the appeal of the area. The birth of a symbolic inn has attracted a new customer base, including inbound tourists, and this is having a ripple effect on the inns that were already there."

Local accommodation facilities are not competing with each other, but are working together to attract customers. This initiative in the Ana area, centered around "Wakasa Kabi," is sure to become a guidepost for the tourism style of the future.

As winter arrives, the fish of the Sea of ​​Japan, including not only Wakasa fugu but also Echizen crab and yellowtail, become more and more delicious. Wakasa Kabi offers a luxurious time to enjoy the view of winter Wakasa Bay, soak in the hot springs, and savor the seafood.