Executive Chef Yu Sugimoto creates dishes every day in the kitchen of the Imperial Hotel Tokyo, but now his gaze is directed towards the fertile land and sea of Ishikawa Prefecture.
Since 2021, Chef Sugimoto has been thinking about sustainable food, working to reduce food waste, and aiming to balance luxury and sustainability, working on the theme of "changing society in a delicious way."
"It may seem like the trend in society is to talk about sustainability, but there are many things you can learn by visiting the actual production site, such as what is happening in the kitchen and at the production site, the difference in attitudes, and the issues at the production site. If you see the producers' faces and understand their thoughts, I think you will naturally begin to see how ingredients should be handled."
Chef Sugimoto's decisive words are filled with a deeper passion that goes beyond simply pursuing luxury or deliciousness. In an age where climate change and resource issues are being called out, the quest for sustainable ingredients is an unavoidable path for both a top chef and a human being.
Since last year, this chef has chosen Ishikawa Prefecture, blessed with the bounty of the Sea of Japan and fertile land. What hidden potential does the food grown in the satoumi of Noto and the satoyama of Kaga hold? Chef Sugimoto's journey to Ishikawa has begun.
Discover the excellent agricultural, forestry and fishery products of Ishikawa Prefecture, grown in the rich mountains and sea
Ishikawa Prefecture is located in the central part of Honshu facing the Sea of Japan and is made up of two unique regions: the Noto Peninsula and the Kaga region. The Noto Peninsula in the north is home to rich fishing grounds created by the intricate coastline and traditional satoumi culture. Meanwhile, the Kaga region in the south is home to fertile plains nurtured by the pure waters flowing from the Hakusan mountain range and satoyama nature blessed by Mt. Hakusan, one of Japan's three sacred mountains.
The fertile soil of Ishikawa Prefecture is home to a wide variety of agricultural products, from traditional vegetables with a long history to the prefecture's newly developed branded produce. Chef Sugimoto first visited Okamoto Farm, where Kagamaruimo potatoes are grown.
Kagamaruimo is a brand of yam grown in Nomi and Komatsu cities in Ishikawa Prefecture. It is a black-skinned yam belonging to the Dioscorea group of the Dioscorea genus, and is about the size of a softball. When grated, it has a surprisingly sticky texture.
Kagamaruimo is a brand of yam that is a specialty grown in Nomi City and Komatsu City in Ishikawa Prefecture.
As he tasted the dish, Chef Sugimoto said with a smile, "This is a fun ingredient. I feel like I've been given an idea for a different way to eat it." He continued to think, "If you use it with ingredients that stick to each other, like eggs or fish, it really expands the flavor."
Our next stop was Takemoto Farm in Nomi City, a rice-growing area. Utilizing homemade raw straw compost and meltwater from Mt. Hakusan, Takemoto Farm is meticulous about its rice cultivation techniques and soil preparation. They began cultivating Italian rice in 2011 and have undergone a process of trial and error. Currently, they handle eight varieties of rice and are considered the leading authority on Italian rice in Japan.
Carnaroli is highly regarded as a domestically grown rice that is perfect for authentic Italian risotto and paella. Chef Sugimoto listened intently to what the producer had to say while gazing at the shining golden ears of rice.
Our next stop was Honda Farm, which is said to be popular with professionals such as hotel and restaurant chefs. Honda Farm uses food waste from local elementary schools and kindergartens as compost, creating soil that allows crops to grow strong and healthy. They also limit the use of pesticides and thoroughly analyze and improve upon any mistakes, resulting in a reputation for consistently producing high-quality tomatoes.
Honda Farm started with six greenhouses, but now has about 70. Most of the tomatoes grown are medium-sized.
When asked to try one inside the greenhouse, Chef Sugimoto picked one from the branch and took a bite. "It's delicious! The skin is soft and it's juicy and sweet," he said with a smile. Popular varieties include Hana Komachi, Hana Otome, and Frutica.
Discover seasonal seafood at Ishikawa's fishing ports
In fact, this day, September 1st, was the opening day for bottom trawl fishing. Chef Sugimoto visited Hashidate Fishing Port and observed the unloading and sorting of catches from boats returning to port after a fishing season, and also witnessed the lively evening auction on the opening day for bottom trawl fishing.
The biggest feature of this fishing port is the outstanding freshness that its location produces. Because the fishing grounds are very close to Hashidate Fishing Port, fishing boats can return to port within a dozen hours. This means that fresh fish can be sold at auction without losing its freshness.
At the port, a variety of seasonal fish were being landed one after another, including blackthroat seaperch, sweet shrimp, gas shrimp, flounder, mizuika (spiny squid), and hairy crab in the bottom trawl nets, and Spanish mackerel and mackerel in the fixed nets. Chef Sugimoto watched the scene up close and sampled some freshly caught sweet shrimp given to him directly by the fishermen. It was an amazing feeling to be able to enjoy the food while looking out at the port and the boats!
Afterwards, Chef Sugimoto walked around the fish market for a while, observing the eight different selections of white shrimp and the state of the hairy crabs, before heading to the fields where the prefecture's original agricultural products are grown.
The finest fruits that Ishikawa Prefecture is proud of
Have you heard of "Ruby Roman," the jewel-like grape that Ishikawa Prefecture is proud of? It's an original variety that Ishikawa Prefecture has spent 14 years cultivating. Based on the large, black grape variety "Fujiminori," it was born after thorough research and investigation into the quality of its flavor, color, cluster, and berry size, as well as ease of cultivation. It's the highest quality grape in Ishikawa Prefecture. It's grown within the jurisdiction of six JA (Japan Agricultural Cooperatives) in the prefecture, and at the first auction in 2025, a single cluster was priced at 1 million yen.
On this day, we visited Maruyama Vineyard, one of the producers of Ruby Roman grapes. While listening to them talk about the hardships that go into cultivating them, we were given the opportunity to taste some Ruby Roman grapes. Chef Sugimoto exclaimed in admiration, "Each grape is heavy, delicious, and juicy!"
Another original variety of pear from Ishikawa Prefecture is Kaga Shizuku. This is a new variety of pear that Ishikawa Prefecture has been developing for 16 years. We visited the Okuya Pear Producers Association, one of the pear producing areas.
Large, highly sugary pears with a regular shape can fetch over 1,000 yen each. The difference in temperature between day and night is said to give the pears a firm flavor. The stylish name, elegant sweetness, and smooth texture make these pears a popular Ishikawa Prefecture brand.
Chef Sugimoto picks up a heavy Kaga Shizuku.
Memories of Hashidate Fishing Port: The excitement of the auction and meeting fishermen
Chef Sugimoto returns to Hashidate Fishing Port. A variety of fishing methods are carried out in Hashidate throughout the year, including diving fishing from spring to summer, fixed net fishing, and gill net fishing. In autumn, there is bottom trawl fishing. And of course, there is Kano crab and hairy box crab in winter. A wide variety of fish species are landed throughout the year. For Chef Sugimoto's cuisine, which he seeks to "maximize the power of the ingredients," it seems that Hashidate's seafood is ideal.
It was almost time for the auction. The auction held on the opening day of the bottom trawl fishing season at Hashidate Fishing Port is a traditional event that heralds the arrival of autumn. The fishing boats set sail the night before and return in the morning or early afternoon. The fish that have been landed are quickly sorted by type and immediately transported to the auction area. Fisheries association staff and brokers gather at the port and market, and the auction is carried out lively with spirited calls. Chef Sugimoto also observed the proceedings. The port was bustling with activity, with many consumers and visitors looking to catch the first catches of the season.
A roundtable discussion between Imperial Hotel Executive Chef Sugimoto and fishermen
Chef Sugimoto's journey exploring Ishikawa Prefecture's bountiful ingredients concluded the following day with a roundtable discussion at Hashidate Fishing Port. Attendees included Chef Sugimoto, Ishikawa Fisheries Cooperative Association Chairman Hashimoto Katsutoshi, and three long-time Hashidate Fishing Port veterans who know the sea inside and out: Captain Hemoto (of the 18th Kunsho Maru), Captain Kitagawa Tomoo (of the Aimei Maru), and Captain Tozukaya Toru (of the 5th Ebisu Maru).
Takuto Shimada of the Fisheries Division of the Ishikawa Prefecture Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries Department, who coordinated this tour, moderated the roundtable discussion and said the following:
"The Noto Peninsula earthquake and subsequent heavy rain disaster in 2024 dealt a major blow to Ishikawa Prefecture's fishing industry. It wasn't until November 2024 that fishing resumed in almost all areas. This year, Ishikawa marks the first year of recovery from the earthquake, and from April, we have been looking toward a new future and putting our energy into it, including promoting our products. In the midst of this, we also had an event at the Imperial Hotel Tokyo, and Chef Sugimoto himself visited Ishikawa twice, paying close attention to the situation in Ishikawa Prefecture. This time, we decided to hold this roundtable discussion as a first attempt to sit down with fishermen and hear their honest opinions."
Participants in the roundtable discussion (from left): Jun Hemoto, captain of the 18th Kunsho Maru; Tohru Tozukaya, captain of the 5th Ebisu Maru; Yu Sugimoto, executive chef at the Imperial Hotel; Katsutoshi Hashimoto, director of the Ishikawa Prefectural Fisheries Cooperative Association and chairman of the Kaga branch steering committee; and Tomoo Kitagawa, captain of the Aimei Maru.
The discussion covered a number of topics, including efforts by the fishing cooperative to attract customers through events following the recovery from the Noto Peninsula earthquake, how various regions in Ishikawa Prefecture are coming together to promote recovery, how fishermen from Hashidate Fishing Port provided struggling fishermen from Wajima with rope they needed, changes in seawater temperature due to climate change, and the training of young fishermen and captains.
Chef Sugimoto said:
"I enjoyed the fresh fish that was caught yesterday at a fisherman's favorite restaurant, which was incredibly fresh and delicious. It was truly an incredible tasting experience. I have been to Ishikawa twice now and have been thinking about how much we outside the prefecture can contribute to support and reconstruction. I was deeply moved by seeing my fellow fishermen helping each other. I try to convey that feeling of the people of Ishikawa to my customers through my cooking."
Chef Sugimoto's words convey his deep feelings for Ishikawa Prefecture, as if he is saying that the greatness of Ishikawa's ingredients lies in the deep feelings of the people behind them.
"I want to continue to actively engage in dialogue with producers, use more and more of Ishikawa's delicious ingredients, and not just treat them as ingredients, but understand the stories and thoughts behind them, and express and communicate those through my cooking. It has made me even more motivated to cook."
Finishing my trip in Ishikawa
"The local people working on the front lines look cool and happy. They look cool even when they're working and covered in sweat. Without ingredients we can't do anything. If you consider the life cycle of ingredients, chefs only touch a small percentage of them in the end. This was a valuable opportunity for both producers and chefs to share their thoughts and reaffirm the importance of continuing to move towards a sustainable food future."
Chef Sugimoto's words resonated deeply with me.
Yu Sugimoto
He joined the Imperial Hotel in 1999 and began his career as a chef. He left the company in 2004 and moved to France. In 2006, he joined the three-star restaurant at the prestigious Paris hotel Le Meurice, where he honed his skills as a chef and also served as a manager under Yannick Alléno and Alain Ducasse. He rejoined the Imperial Hotel in 2017 and became Tokyo Head Chef in 2019. In April 2025, he will become the hotel's third Executive Chef, overseeing 500 chefs across all Imperial Hotel locations.
Text by Mariko Awano
Journalist. Has lived in Paris for over 20 years, reporting and writing for numerous magazines, including Japanese women's magazines, and travel books. Currently based in Tokyo. Her books include "One Night from Paris! Beautiful Villages of France" (Shueisha).
